Buenos Aires, the city that never sleeps

After breakfast in your Buenos Aires hotel you should head out to explore this huge city.

For a first time visitor, Buenos Aires can be overwhelming, as the city is packed with hundreds of excellent restaurants, dozens of museums, art galleries, and on-going exhibitions.

You should start by making your way to Plaza Mayo, which is where Casa Rosada and the Central Cathedral is located, and was the famous place where Eva Peron spoke to crowds before her death.

From Plaza Mayo you can head up Av. Diagonal Norte to Plaza de la Republic, which is graced by the grand Obelisk. Av. 9 de Julio, the largest avenue in the world, cuts through the heart of Buenos Aires.

By this time, you’re probably thinking about lunch. Nearly every street corner in Buenos Aires has a gourmet restaurant. If you walk up Av. Honduras towards Palermo Hollywood you will find plenty of terrific restaurants. Plaza Serrano, which is at Av. Serrano and Av. Honduras in Palermo, is a nice place to find somewhere to eat.

The trendy Palermo district is split in two by train tracks. The SoHo side is home to Buenos Aires’s young middle class. In Palermo Hollywood are Argentina’s movie and TV studios, as well as a number of smaller cafes and bars. Venturing over the train tracks is definitely recommended.

After lunch spend some time exploring the streets before you head off to the Museum of Latin American Art of Buenos Aires (MALBA)? on Av. Pres. Figueroa Alcorta. The museum houses an interesting collection of modern as well as pre-Columbian art.

Nearby is the Museo Evita (Av. Lafinur 2988) which is dedicated to the life of Eva Peron, who was immortalized in the movie Evita and was played by Madonna. The film shows what Argentina achieved in the post-war period to tackle poverty, fight inequality, and improve education, as well as the horrible story about what happened to the body of Eva after her death.

A short walk up the street with take you to Plaza Italia which is next to the Buenos Aires Zoo, which is open till late, especially in the summer months. You can spend time meandering the expansive park.

If you are looking to spend the night like a typical porteño, going out late and dancing you should head to Av. Cornel Niceto Vega and Av. Humbolt. Vega Avenue is lined with chic clubs open all night long. Av. Humbolt has a number of restaurants, a cinema, and a British/style pub.

If you happen to wake early after a late night out in the city and it is a Sunday morning, you should make your way to the street market in San Telmo (Av. Defensa) where they sell a range of market goods, food, and what San Telmo is famous for, antiques.

The area of San Telmo is very artsy, with the main plaza in San Telmo having tango and dance shows put on by locals every week. The plaza is also a good place to find something to eat and a small bar to listen to some live jazz.

After exploring the streets around San Telmo, you should make your way over to the residential area of Recoleta.

Recoleta is home to the famous Recoleta Cemetery, the resting place of the Argentine high society. Some of the graves are more like monuments and it is worth having a look around.

From the cemetery you can walk to the nearby chapel and then down to the Recoleta Design Center which is more like a mall, selling the very latest in fashions from Argentina and the world.

There are some great lunch spots around here, just see what you can find. But for a quick lunch, you can pick up an Argentine empanada, a meat-filled sandwich available on nearly every street corner for only a few pesos.

You can then walk down to the Museo Nacional de Bella Artes (Av. Libertador), the museum of fine arts in Buenos Aires.

No trip to Buenos Aires would be complete without exploring the stuff that runs through the blood of every Argentine – a passion for soccer.

When the Boca Juniors play in La Bombadero stadium, the city stops and everyone’s attention centers on the game. The stadium, located in the district of La Boca, also has a museum that tells the history of the team and its famous Buenos Aires players.

You can then head down the waterfront in La Boca to see the colorful houses that line the streets. La Boca is a typical ‘working class’ area of Buenos Aires and was home to waves of early immigrants to the city, a very interesting place.

Some final places to make sure you visit if you somehow find the time is the new Puerto Madero development, the newest part of the city, which backs onto the banks of the river and the Buenos Aires ecological reserve.

Also you should visit the area around Retiro station, with the grand clock tower ‘Torre de los Ingleses’ which contrary to recent Argentine British relations, was donated by the British government to commemorate the Argentine May Independence revolution and the closeness between the two nations at the start of the 20^th century.

Buenos Aires is a huge city that even residents have not fully explored. 48 hours is not enough to see it all, but you can always try!

Bariloche, in northern Patagonia, is a Mecca for those heading for a Patagonia destination. The town is most famous as a ski resort due to its proximity to the ski slopes of Cerro Catedral.

Perched on the side of a huge lake and surrounded by snow-capped mountains, Bariloche seems more like a Swiss Alpine resort.

Golf and snow capped mountains in Bariloche

Its residents seem European too, as many of Argentina’s citizens are immigrants, and the capital, Buenos Aires, is often nicknamed the Paris of South America.

The local pubs have the feel of an Alpine bar, serving a variety of European and local beers.

Famous Fondue

Just like in many Alpine ski resorts, there is a range of fondue restaurants around Bariloche. You can gather around a pot of bubbling cheese and cook various meats and vegetables, perfect for warming up after a long day of hitting the slopes.

Chocolate & Bariloche

What many visitors to Bariloche are unaware of is that Bariloche is the chocolate capital of Argentina and possibly South America.

Even though the cocoa bean was first discovered in Mexico, it was the Europeans and then later Americans that perfected the process to make it into the chocolate that we know today.

It was also the Swiss and Germans that engineered the technique of mixing fresh milk with the bitter cocoa bean to make the sweet milk chocolate that we know of today.

This made Swiss chocolate some of the most famous and well-known chocolates in the early chocolate market development.

Bariloche, keeping in line with the Alpine feel, developed its own chocolate industry, using fresh sheep as well as cow milk to make the sweet chocolate.

As you walk down the main shopping street of Calle Mitre you are struck by the sweet smells and colorful stores that line the sides of the street.

Feel free to enter the shops and indulge your senses. Ask for some free samples!

Many of the stores feature displays that allow you to see how they hand-craft their luxury chocolates.

Many of the stores also have special chocolate features, such as giant chocolate rabbits during Easter.

Don’t forget to take some time between your Bariloche tours to visit the Bariloche Chocolate Museum!

With the first match on Friday (11^th June) the eyes of the world are going to be on South Africa, and with the final on the 11^th July it is a month of football madness.

Football fans in Peru will be watching every match, despite the fact that Peru didn't quality

Sadly Peru wasn’t able to qualify; but the South American nations of Argentina, Chile, Paraguay, Uruguay and of course Brazil will all be fighting for the title.

One thing that I have learnt during my time in South America is that everybody loves football; it runs in the blood with many South American towns almost deserted during key cup matches.

Trying to get a taxi while Boca Juniors play River in Buenos Aires is not a good idea.

So while you’re here on your Peru vacation why not get into the spirit of the continent, find a bar, a big screen and enjoy the show.

Where to go:

In Lima there are a number of options. Many hotels, bars and casinos will be showing the match.

The well known places for a good crowd are The Corner Bar in Miraflores and the El Estadio bar near to San Martin square in the centre.

The Corner Bar, a typical American sports bar, is home away from home for sports fans. But with one of the first matches being England v the USA on the 12^th June, there should be a good vibe.

El Estado is in the city centre and is for serious sports fans. With 50″ HD screens and a range of Peruvian food this could be a place to spend a long afternoon.

The Fiesta Casino on Av Benevides in Miraflores is also counting down the days to the world cup, boasting food and drinks to keep you going during the match.

In the rest of Peru as well as Lima, Casa Andina Hotels will be showing matches in all of its bars. Casa Andina are have a special promotion where you can try some of the national food from each and have a beer for only 25 Soles.

This means ‘Cheeseburgers‘ and ‘Fish & Chips‘ for the USA v England match on Saturday and Nachos on sale for the Mexico v France match.

Being a writer, I’m not supposed to be overly biased. However, being a Brit living in Peru I have to say – come on ENGLAND!

Ilha Grande, the grand island just off the coast of Brazil between Rio de Janerio and São Paulo, is for you. Escape the busy citylife to experience a Brazil hotel you can almost call your own.

The main town on tropical Ilha Grande, Brazil

Surrounded by pristine beaches and a crisp blue ocean, the island and the surrounding ocean are part of the Ilha Grande National Park. The center of the island is filled with a rich range of wildlife and some of Brazil’s last remaining Atlantic rainforest.

The island is only accessible by boat and, except for the local ambulance, no cars are allowed. The best way to get around is to hike: there are over 150km of hiking trails snaking through jungle vegetation, deserted beaches, freshwater pools, and spectacular waterfalls.

The eastern coastline is exposed to the Atlantic, and its waves are popular with surfers and body boarders. The rough seas have also claimed a number of vessels in the years since colonization; these wrecks are now visited by many scuba diving schools. A yacht tour is another excellent way to explore the beaches surrounding this beautiful island.

The town of Abraão faces the port of Angra dos Reis on the Brazilian mainland, and the majority of ferries between the mainland and the island dock in this port.

In Abraão you will find some excellent restaurants and bars that are great to explore as the sun sets on this pristine island. You will also find posadas, a type of Brazilian hotel room. It is essentially an en suite room in a family-styled home.

For visitors looking for more luxury it is possible to stay in one of the many luxury eco-hotels outside of town. These are only accessible by private boat from the hotel.

Abraão has almost the typical tourist services, but be warned, internet connectivity is limited and credit cards are not widely accepted.

Visitors to Ilha Grande are privileged to experience such a unique environment. Be prepared to relax, explore and experience one of the best places that Brazil has to offer.

In May 1810, Argentina’s independence movement began, culminating on the 25^th of May with the government of Rio de Plate (what is now Argentina, Paraguay, Uruguay and Bolivia) creating its own government, separate to the one of the Spanish king, yet still loyal to the crown.

The center of celebrations for May Revolution Week will be on Avienda 9 de Julio

As news of this spread, similar home rule governments sprouted up. The Spanish king, weakened by the Napoleonic invasion, was unable to quell colonial ambitions. In the spirit of Enlightenment thought, many Spanish colonies successfully asserted their independence.

Cities around the country are preparing to host free live music concerts, parades, and shows. Tonight in Buenos Aires, a parade will kick-off the celebrations at 8pm. The parade will weave through the center of the city, passing the central obelisk and a concert stage on Avienda 9 de Julio. Other events will start at 8pm throughout the city.

On Saturday at 12pm, the military will celebrate the occasion with the “desfilódromo” parade, marching between the obelisk and Avienda Belgrano. Over

3000 soldiers in their historical Argentine military uniforms will accompany the Argentina Air Force and the cavalry.

Along the grand Avienda 9 de Julio will be stalls and markets for people to taste Argentinian cuisine typical of Buenos Aires as well as other regions.

Each day of festivities will have a musical theme. Rock music starts things off today, Saturday will be Latin music, Sunday will be folk and tango, and Monday will have performances from the National Symphony Orchestra. The festivities culminate on Tuesday, the 25^th, with a performance by the famous Argentinean musician Fito Paez.

The key events fall on the final day, with a range of political and religious events to take place in the Casa Rosada in Plaza Mayor, in the heart of the city. While you’re in the city, check out the great Buenos Aires museums, and make sure to tango. If you’re wondering where to stay in town, we’ve got you covered with a list of Buenos Aires hotels.

Whatever you decide to do, do it in typical Argentine style: stay out late and dance!

The lake is the highest navigated area of water in the world and is one of the largest. What makes the lake so attractive are the amazingly crafted Islands of Uros, created out of locally grown tortoa reed in a process that has been passed down from generation to generation.

Tortoa reeds of Lake Titicaca.

The lake is easily accessible from Cusco and there are two primary transport options between Cusco and the principle city in the area, Puno. You can travel either by train or by bus. You can fly, but it would involve a connection in Lima.

The bus from Cusco to Puno takes between and 8 and 9 hours and makes various stops along the way at archaeological sites, as well as at rest-stops and restaurants.

The train ride is slightly longer – some 10 hours – but while the bus features first class accommodations for a vehicle of its variety, the first class accommodations on the train are significantly more opulent with lounge-chair seating, fine china and silverware used for first-rate, delicious meals, and a lookout-car, where guests can leisurely enjoy the scenery of the Peruvian highlands.

While the more luxurious train makes no stops, shorter bus ride to Puno does make several pauses along the way. Tourists traveling by bus normally enjoy bilingual guided stops at the following locations along the route:

• Andahuaylillas: known as the “Sixteenth Chapel of the Americas,” this church features an exhibition of colonial art work dating back to the XVI and XVII century. (Entrance fee: US $1.5/person)
• Raqchi: This is the temple dedicated to God Wiracocha, supreme God of the Incas. (Entrance fee: US$2/person)
• Sicuani: Here guests will be able to rest and enjoy an Andean buffet lunch
• La Raya: This is the highest point of the trip, where guests will be able to appreciate snow-peaked mountains, alpacas and the amazing scenery of the Andean countryside.
• Pukara: This is ancient archaeological complex constructed in a grand pyramidal shape dating as far back as 4,000 B.C. (entrance fee $2)

By travelling by bus, the journey normally includes snacks and on board hostess assistance.

For more cautious travelers a key advantage of bus transport is that you embark and disembark from a private bus station in both cities as opposed to a public train station.

The mode of transport you choose to take depends on your personal preference.

However many people talk about how spectacular the views are along the train route, especially as you approach Lake Titicaca.

The atmosphere is electric. Thousands line the streets of Santiago all with one thing on their minds – the ‘Pequeña Gigante’.

The Little Giant? What´s that? I wondered, until I was graced with its presence.

Giant Puppet on the streets of Santiago. Courtesy of Jonathan Hudson.

2010 is a big year for Chile. It has been 200 years since the birth of the Chilean Republic. Kicking off Chile´s fiestas in style, Santiago is celebrating 200 years of national theater with two giant puppets.

The first puppet, known as Little Giant, was a two-story-tall pulley-driven mechanical wonder. As she rode her gigantic tricycle, puppeteers on a crane behind her threw their weight onto each of the ropes to make the puppet wave and smile. It was a truly fantastic piece of artwork.

As the Little Giant passed, her uncle, Mr. Escafandra, arrived. The Uncle was twice as tall and was costumed in an old diving suit. On his giant carnival float was a full-sized boat that moved as if in a rough ocean, spraying water over the crowds, to the delight of many. Both he and the boat were also controlled by an intricate network of pulleys and puppeteers.

Uncle in a diving suit. Courtesy of Jonathan Hudson.

Add to all this a catchy melody humming through the streets. Traditional musicians walked before the puppets, entertaining the crowds. As the puppets wound the packed streets of Santiago, adults and children look up on it with excitement, with a sense of national pride and jubilation.

Centering around the Plaza de La Constitution and Plaza de Armas, the parade took place during a weekend in January. There were also street shows, arts exhibitions, and other events. Official celebrations finished on the Sunday night with the puppets put away into gigantic toy boxes on stage. The closing spectacle is an image that will stay with me and bring back fond memories of Santiago and Chile.

Santiago was my first ever destination in South America some time ago and was a good introduction to the continent. The city is safe and the people warm. Festivals such as these bring out the best in a country and Chile definitely stepped up to the mark. Best of all it was free.

For the rest of the year a range of events are planned up and down the country. The official date of Chilean independence, or Fiestas Patrias, is the 18^th of September. This holiday is celebrated with food, dance and of course, Chilean wine. This year, the holiday falls on a weekend, and the Chilean President has applied to Congress to make Monday the 20^th also a holiday.

The Chilean coastal towns of Vina del Mar and Valparaiso will be hosting bicentennial events of their own, as well as other major Chile destinations.

As with most festivals in South America you should bear these things in mind:

Most hotels will be booked in advance so if you’re traveling independently of a tour, make sure you book ahead for the Independence Day weekend.

Banks and other essential services will be closed for the holiday, so don’t be caught short without any cash.

Transport schedules shouldn’t change, but fares may rise and tickets may be booked in advance.

When in a large crowd anywhere in the world, use sensible caution to avoid the risk of being pick-pocketed. Keep valuables in inside pockets or money belts.

Ships on the ocean. Courtesy of Patricio Santiago.

As many of the nations of South America approach their 200^th anniversary of independence from Spain, a number of celebrations and festivals have been planned across the continent – guaranteed to add some extra excitement to a Latin America vacation!

One event is already underway: The South America Sails Regatta 2010has been circumnavigating the continent, stopping in ports along the way. This entourage of grand historical sailing ships manned by the navies of participating nations are an attraction in themselves, providing tours in each port and an insight into South America rich seafaring past.

The flotilla started its voyage in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, and travelled around the legendary Cape Horn to Veracruz in Mexico. The nations of Brazil, Argentina, Chile and Peru have all hosted the ships along special events in each of the ports. Peru has just hosted the ships in the port of Callao. Next stop: The port of Guayaquil in Ecuador, from 7^th to 11^th of May. The flotilla has yet to visit Columbia, Venezuela, The Dominican Republic, and Mexico.

The flotilla is not just made up of regional ships; in celebration of the shared nautical history of Europe and South America, the nations of Spain, Portugal and Holland have also contributed grand tall ships from their past.

Over the coming years, visitors to the region will be lucky to see an array of events and festivals in cities and nations to celebrate the rich past that unites all the nations of the region. Keep on checking the Latin America For Less Travel Blog for upcoming festivals and reviews.

Sailing ships in action on the Pacific. Courtesy of Patricio Santiago.

Chile´s Independence Day celebrations take place on the 18^th September, with this year’s festivities falling on a weekend. The President has applied to congress to make the Monday following it a public holiday, meaning it will be a wild weekend in Chile.

Independence Day celebrations take place in Peru on the 28^th and 29^th of July. The two days of celebrations involve a range of event and festivals. You can read about last year’s events on our Travel Blog.

In Argentina, Independence Day falls on the 9^th of July. Their bicentennial comes in 2016, but each year, fiestas take place across the nation which can only enrich your vacation if you’re lucky enough to be there.