We caught a short taxi ride from the bus terminal and were deposited at the door of our lodging, located very close to Santa Cruz, one of the main streets that runs down the length of La Paz. At this early hour, the city was already revving up to the frenzied pace that characterizes daily life here. After checking in, breakfasting, and having a nap, we finally headed out to our destination.

A population of over 2 million inhabitants resides in La Paz, a city built up the sides of hills ranging in elevation from 9,800 feet to 13,400 feet (3,000 meters to 4,100 meters). Photo Credit: Herlim Li.

The Witches’ Market is actually one street in the middle of a larger market and is located on Jimenez and Linares streets between Sagarnaga and Santa Cruz. In this collection of shops and booths, women dressed in layered skirts and wearing black bowler hats trade in souvenirs and occult knowledge. Yatiris is the name for the medicine healers and fortunetellers, recognizable by their ponchos and coca pouches, that also available on these streets, offering their skills to paceños and travelers alike.

One of the most fascinating things you will see in this fascinating city is the Mercado de la Brujas – or the Witches’ Market.

On sale at the Witches’ Market, amid quantities of cheap trinkets, alpaca sweaters, and happy pants, we saw dried frogs and rats, owl feathers, seeds, herbs, and insect parts, as well as medicinal plants, love potions, ceramic figures, and amulets. There are also statuettes and when you talk to the vendors, you learn that different statues serve different functions. For example, there are statues to protect children, to safeguard travelers, to attract love, or to bring prosperity to a business. Many of the items on sale are the raw materials used in indigenous Aymara rituals as part of practices with ancient roots that are still very much part of Bolivian culture.

For many who seek out the Witches’ Market, the main draw is the desiccated llama fetuses that are visible everywhere along the street, piled into baskets, crammed into boxes, or hanging on display. There are two main uses for the llama fetus, or sullu in the Aymara language. Bolivians purchase dried fetuses to bury under the foundations of new houses or other buildings in order to bring protection to the construction. In its second use, the llama fetus is prepared by brujas (witches) with incense, sugar and sweets, and wool dyed in multiple colors. This preparation is known as a mesa andina (Andean table), and when burnt, it brings good luck, whether to a household, business, or other venture. In both uses, the llama fetus serves as an offering to give thanks to Pachamama, or Mother Earth.

Tiny llamas, some with fur and some without, will provide a shock for some and a thrill for others.

You may be wondering where these llama fetuses come from. Well, it is not uncommon for llamas to miscarry during the rainy season. The aborted fetuses are collected and then sold in markets like this one.

An interesting characteristic of the Witches’ Market is the predominance of women as business owners. This market has existed for generations and many of the shops that line Calle Linares, as well as the knowledge that is exchanged within them, have been passed on through generations of women. Additionally, in Bolivia, where home and business are often merged, the witches and folk healers that do their business along Calle Linares also live on this street.

Two things struck me most about the Witches’ Market. First, was the initial sense of foreignness and difference upon seeing the raw materials of witchcraft so openly displayed. Second, was that the intended effect of that witchcraft was deeply entwined with the universal and enduring preoccupations of humanity – among them, money, luck, and love. For me, travel is about finding these resonances.

Read about why Bolivia and Peru are perfect for a dual-country holiday and contact one of our expert travel advisors to start planning your fully customized trip to Bolivia and other destinations.  

Despite all the things they have seen and done, Audrey tells us that their time spent in South America remains some of the most treasured memories. Here she shares some of her nostalgia and tips for traveling on the continent, hoping to inspire everyone to go see it for themselves.

The fragrant smells, colorful displays, and mingling local population found in South American food markets often make for eye-opening travel experiences.

1. What aspect of travel in South America has continued to be most memorable to you? The landscapes? The people? Aspects of the culture? The architecture? etc.

Most memorable has to be the people, of course. We have wonderful memories of getting lost in lively local markets learning about local foods and dishes from vendors. Landscape comes in as a close second. Some of our favorite landscapes include the salt flats (Salar de Uyuni) in Bolivia, Patagonian mountains and glaciers in Chile (Torres del Paine) and Argentina (El Chalten), mountains throughout Peru and Ecuador.

2. Have you had a chance to visit the 2 South American destinations that have recently been honored as part of the New 7 Natural Wonders of the world: the Amazon Rainforest and Iguazu Falls? In what ways did they strike you?

We were at the edge of the Amazon Rainforest while in Bolivia and Peru but didn’t actually go into the Amazon. It’s still on our wishlist!

As for Iguazu Falls, we were blown away. We’re usually jaded when it comes to waterfalls, but Iguazu is like no other waterfall we’ve seen – it’s awesome to feel the mist from the falls on you and really feel the power of the water.

"Iguazu Falls is like no other waterfall we've seen."

3. If you had the chance to return to Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia, Argentina, or Chile tomorrow, which would you choose and why?

Oooh, tough question! If I could only choose one, it would have to be Peru because we missed visiting Arequipa and trekking in Huayhuash during our last visit.

4. Which South American destination would you suggest to the nature lover? The urban city explorer?

For the nature lover, I’d suggest the Patagonian area of Chile, especially the northern areas near the Carretera Austral. We had the chance to travel quickly through there and not only was the landscape stunning, but there was no one around. It would be the perfect escape for a nature lover.

The 4-day journey from Tupiza to Uyuni going through the salt flats was also incredible; the colors were just surreal at times.

As for the urban city explorer, I’d suggest Buenos Aires for cosmopolitan, La Paz for funky, Quito for colonial beauty, Lima for food, and Santiago for markets and laid back feel.

Peru is known throughout South America and the world for its exceptionally developed and varied gastronomy. You can’t miss out on a fresh plate of ceviche or hearty meat sandwich during your Peru vacation!

5. Peru, and particularly Lima, has been earning spots on countless 2012 Gastronomy Capital honors in recent months. Where did you best enjoy food in South America?

Definitely Lima. We spent over three weeks there and could have stayed longer just to eat more Peruvian food. Loved the fresh seafood dishes like ceviche and tiradito, but also enjoyed causa, rocoto relleno, and so much more. Also, the fresh juices in Peru were addictive (and very cheap)!

The Paracas National Reserve aims to protect and preserve a portion of the delicate biodiversity of Peru's coastal desert.

As nice as it is to have every convenience at your fingertips when you live in the center of the country’s capital, sometimes you just need to get out. If you’re in Lima, one of the best and subsequently most popular getaways is Paracas, an area teeming with natural and wildlife resources just 3 hours south of the metropolis. My friends and I only spent 1 day in Paracas as part of a greater weekend in the region as part of our overall Peru vacation, but it was definitely one to remember.

One of the main attractions that draws visitors to the quaint shoreside village is the Islas Ballestas that lie off its coast. This cluster of smaller islands is known to be one of the most dynamic and diverse homes for wildlife in the world, rivaling places such as the infamous Galapagos. Like many others, our plan was to take one of the dozens of morning boating excursions to get up close and personal with the Ballestas. However, our expectations fell apart because as it turned out, the sea had been uncharacteristically violent in recent days and it was not safe to venture out of the port for our Ballestas Islands tour. Instead, we took advantage of our time to visit another nearby attraction: the Paracas National Reserve.

The park was founded in 1975 and is the only protected marine area of Peru, home to colonies of sea lions, Humboldt penguins, dolphins, flamingos, and many more species.

The national reserve could not have been more different from the oceanic Peru tour we had expected to embark on when we first arrived in Paracas. Rather, this protected park dives deep into Peru’s dry and sparse pampas desert and offers brilliantly soft golden, rocky expanses that particularly radiate in beauty when contrasted with the Pacific’s deep blue below its cliffs. This parched landscape was once the ocean floor, we were taught, and many prehistoric fossils have been unearthed in modern-day excavations. Our guide also carefully explained the names and significance of various species of exotic birds that flew around us throughout the day, and took us to see sights such as Playa Rojo (Red Beach) liked for its maroon-colored sands and the highlight of La Catedral, a large arched rock formation off the coast but now unfortunately stands destroyed by the deadly earthquake that shook Paracas in 2007. And of course, we visited the reserve’s stunning vista point where we saw dozens upon dozens of sea lions and penguins mingling amongst each other. Yes, this not-so-southern region of Peru is home to large colonies of Humboldt Penguins!

Overall, the Paracas National Reserve and its fascinating views of land, sea, and wildlife was an absolutely delightful break from the sounds and crowds of Lima, and well worth at least a day of your time on your Peru travel packages whether you want to relax or explore.

In 2012, Peruvian park agencies will focus on developing Manu National Park as a destination for ecotourism.

What is ecotourism?

Ecotourism is a form of tourism that places emphasis on responsible and sustainable travel to natural areas. Among its key objectives, the ecotourism ethos seeks to minimize human impact, maximize conservation, and when applicable to increase the direct and indirect socio-economic benefits to the human populations that inhabit the affected environments. This philosophy is particularly important in Manu National Park, especially as it continues to grow and develop as a tourist destination.

Manu National Park

Located where the Andes and the Amazon River meet in southwestern Peru, Manu National Park comprises 1.5 million hectares and is the country’s largest protected area. In 1977, Manu was declared a Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO, and in 1987, a World Heritage Site. One unique trait of Manu is the range of elevations or altitudes within the reserve. From the river lowlands located at 500 feet (150 meters) above sea level, the mountainous rainforest areas and puna (grasslands) rise up to 13,800 feet (4,200 meters) in some places. This characteristic creates distinct ecological zones and microclimates, resulting in the astounding natural bounty of flora and fauna in Manu.

This tiny critter is one of 140 species of amphibians that populate Manu National Reserve.

Efforts to catalogue Manu’s diversity of species have turned up mind-blowing numbers: over 15,000 species of plants have been identified, including 250 varieties of trees. The number of bird species is around 1,000, more than the total number in the U.S. and Canada combined.  Among the 200 species of mammals are 14 types of monkeys and rare species like the giant otter and the giant armadillo. Manu is thus the perfect location from which to appreciate Peru’s animal diversity.

Crikey, a caiman! With so many species of plant and animal life in Manu, you never know what you’re likely to see if you keep your eyes open.

These exceptional attributes have made Manu an alluring site for researchers and nature travelers alike. As international attention continues to increase in the coming years, organized efforts to protect and responsibly develop Manu are of obvious importance, and the recent meeting of officials and tour operators was an important first step.

Currently, primary access to Manu is through Cusco, whether by air or ground, making it a fantastically exotic destination to add to your Machu Picchu travel packages. Tours of Manu feature a visit to the famous Cloud Forest, and can be customized to include trips to the clay lick where parrots and macaws congregate as well as jungle hikes. See our Amazon tour page, read our blog on Amazon destinations, or speak with one of our expert travel advisors for more details.

The idea for the event came about after French racer Thierry Sabine got lost in the Libyan desert of North Africa during an unrelated competition. During this time, he saw the potential that Europe and Africa’s dramatic geographies have for hosting an international rally race. However, political situations have made the intercontinental event too dangerous in some locations, so since 2009, Dakar has been moved to South America indefinitely.

The 14-day Dakar Rally brings together the top motorsports racers in the world to see who can race through the South American continent the fastest.

While many of us were still recovering from the previous night’s festivities on January 1, 2012, the top racers around the world were just getting ready to embark on a 14-day journey through the most desolate and extreme environments on the continent. In the last 3 years, Dakar had always been a roundtrip path between Buenos Aires, Argentina and Chile. This year, the rally started in Mar del Plata, Argentina and will continue upwards before ending in Lima, Peru.

Try to catch a glimpse of the racers as they blast through Argentina, Chile, and Peru’s top destinations, but be careful to stay off the road!

The motorsports event is regarded as a true rally where authentic off-road vehicles, as opposed to modified commercial automobiles, roar through the countryside conquering severe terrain. Dakar 2012 racers—who compete in 4 classes namely car, truck, motorcycle, and quads—will cover up to a staggering 500-560 miles (800-900 kilometers) per day for a total of 5,281 miles (8,500 kilometers). Because of the countless tests of nature that the vehicles endure, many of the motor industry’s top brands such as Mercedes-Benz, Volkswagon, Hummer, Honda, and Yamaha like to sponsor and showcase that their products are as well-built and dependable as advertisements claim.

The harsh desert along Peru’s Pacific coastline is forecasted to be one of the biggest challenges in the second week of the race.

If you have free time on your Peru holidays, following Dakar through its first time in the country will surely add some unique thrills to your vacation memories. The group of 465 vehicles will arrive in the capital city of Lima on January 15, 2012 after passing through popular destinations to the south such as Arequipa, Nazca, and Pisco. In fact, is it speculated that two of the most difficult sections will be the 152 miles (246 kilometers) between Arequipa and Nazca, and the 171 miles (276 kilometers) between Nazca and Pisco (famous for being the birthplace of Peru’s iconic grape brandy) due to the rough conditions and intense dune sizes of the coastal Peruvian desert.

Also, if you hurry, you can even catch the Dakar 2012 competitors as part of your Chile vacation. From January 7 to 9, the rally will pass through beautiful sections of northern Chile such as Antofagasta, Iquique, Copiapó, and Arica.

Day 1: Arrive to Peru & Fly to Cusco

Machu Picchu may seem like a far away, unreachable destination, but on the contrary, it’s very accessible. Even if you don’t have much time, you can easily organize your trip and check it off your travel list for 2012 in just a weekend! International flights arrive in the airport in Lima, the hectic and vibrant capital of Peru. From there, you can catch a connecting flight to Cusco. The flight is only a little over 1 hour to reach the magnificent former capital of the Inca Empire where you can spend the night and relax.

Day 2: Visit Cusco

In Cusco, you’ll revel in the myriad luxury hotels, delicious restaurants, and most of all, the impressive architecture. From the grandiose Cathedral and tall, resplendent church of La Compania de Jesus on the main square, to the marvelous Inca stonework of the Korikancha temple and 12 Stone Wall, Cusco is one of the highlights of any Peru vacation. It is best to spend at least one day in Cusco to get acclimatized to the altitude and visit its many wonders before you start on your Machu Picchu travel adventure.

Day 3: Machu Picchu & Overnight in the Sacred Valley

Rise early and catch the train to Machu Picchu for one of the most unforgettable travel experiences of your life! You can take the train around 5 a.m. in Cusco and reach Aguas Calientes, the town at the foot of Machu Picchu, in about 4.5 hours. From here, Machu Picchu is only a quick 20-minute bus ride away. The train and bus ride themselves make for an incredible journey through the beautiful highlands of Peru.

You’ll arrive in the morning at the ruins and have the entire day to explore the site. If you wish to learn more about the history of this majestic fortress and its former inhabitants, it’s best to hire a guide who will provide you with all details and insights you can ask for because there are no informational signs on display among the ruins. Tours generally last around 2 hours, leaving you time afterwards to explore the ruins on your own. Don’t forget to hike up to the Sun Gate, the highest point of the archeological site, for the most beautiful views of Machu Picchu and the surrounding Andean range.

Once you’ve had your fill of the ruins, just hop on a bus down to Aguas Calientes and catch a train back. For a full Machu Picchu holiday experience, stop in Ollantaytambo and spend the night in the Sacred Valley of the Incas, once the mighty empire’s agricultural breadbasket. You can also visit the impressive Inca fortress that still sits in this small village and relax in the beautiful Andean countryside before returning to Cusco.

Day 4: Return to Cusco & Fly to Lima

In the morning, you can take the train to Cusco and fly back to Lima to catch you flight back home. If you have some time to spare, make sure to hop into town and take a look at Lima’s modern Miraflores district for some shopping, or the historic district to admire the colonial architecture. International flights often depart at night so you may even have time to try some of the delicious restaurants in town. We recommend Astrid y Gaston for a full Peruvian gastronomic experience, or the restaurant at the Huaca Pucllana ruins.

Read more about how to get to Machu Picchu or contact one of our travel advisors to start planning your trip today!

Then to my excitement, I learned that a certain type of eatery is particularly well-liked by Peruvians: chifas. These are Chinese restaurants, not to be missed on your Peru vacation if you really want a specific idea of Peruvian culture, that have been popularized since the mid 19th century when hoards of people from southern China’s Guangdong and Macau regions immigrated to Peru to work as laborers. Since I was born in Hong Kong and raised by a mother who never let me forget the fact, I was beyond eager to see just how authentic chifa dishes are to the Canton specialties I was used to.

The barbecue meats in Lima's Chinatown (Barrio Chino) are quite true to taste and texture.

BBQ meats: I found out that not only is Lima full of more than 6,000 chifa restaurants in all of its districts, that there is even a Barrio Chino (Chinatown) near the historic city center sure to stand out in your Lima trip! The short street had all the atmosphere of a Hong Kong market street down to the details of hanging meats in the windows and mooncakes for sale behind the counter. As it happened, then, my very first Peruvian meal was actually a taste of home! The small plate of barbeque duck meats and roasted sausages we ordered was absolutely identical and authentic to what I had eaten all my life and earned my expert eating seal of approval.

Wonton soups in Peru's chifa restaurants are on a playing field of their own.

Sopa wantan: The next two times I had a chance to eat out, I just had to try sopa wantan (wonton soup), arguably the most common starter seen on any chifa menu. Wontons, marinated seasoned ground pork or beef enveloped within a flour wrapper, are staples of any Guangdong diet. Both times when I received my hot bowl of soup and meat dumplings, they looked true enough to form. However, while the soup was always satisfyingly savory, the wontons themselves only disappointed. Apparently in Peruvian chifas, wontons are just pieces of carelessly wrapped white chicken breast rather than rich morsels of red meat. This appetizer is not entirely deniable, but it certainly lacks the spirit and character of a true Canton wonton soup.

Lomo saltado, or stir fried lean beef, is a true example of Peruvian and Cantonese Chinese tastes.

Lomo saltado: The name itself is Peruvian Spanish and so is the dish. Second perhaps only to chaufas (stir fried rice), lomo saltado can be found at any chifa. At its essence, it is composed of marinated beef strips, some light vegetables, French fries, and with a side of white rice. The uniquely delicious mixture of these elements, particularly the inclusion of French fries, makes lomo saltado both distinctively Cantonese in style but entirely Peruvian in flavor. That is to say, although this dish is not authentic to the culture that inspired it, it is unquestionably the ultimate example of Asian fusion cuisine great for rounding out your Peru trips.

Why not use your South American vacation to rejoice in the good and bad of the old year and get a vigorous jump into the fresh one? Who knows, you might even get to check off a few New Year’s resolutions ahead of time!

The mainly Catholic Christmas traditions of the continent below the equator, where the seasons are inverted with those of the northern hemisphere, have flair of their own. Generally, the major festivities with friends and family are held on Christmas Eve. After mass at the local church, neighborhoods ring with traditional music and food-filled parties (centered on an immense turkey) that continue until the early morning. Fireworks are also shot off in the dark of night. On Christmas Day however, much of South America is closed for rest. That means you get to explore your destination in a unique atmosphere of peace and quiet!

Here are our top suggestions for the best places in South America to spend your holiday season.

Doesn’t Paraty, Brazil look like the perfect place to spend your holidays and launch into the New Year?

Paraty, Brazil

Rio de Janeiro might steal the spotlight the rest of the year, but come New Year’s Eve, it’s Paraty’s time to shine. The ocean waters are pristine cerulean, the nearby jungle gives way to an exotic escape, and the fully developed region has all the modern comforts and indulgences for ending 2011 in style. Travel to Brazil for the ultimate New Year’s where dozens and dozens of nightlife options, from the trendiest clubs to the finest restaurants, await. When you begin to seek some new sights, just venture up and down the brilliant Brazilian coast to other beachside corners such as Ubatuba and Trindade.

Wake up to the dawn of a new year in Buenos Aires, Argentina.

Buenos Aires, Argentina

Full of life, laughter, and soul, Buenos Aires is the cultural capital of Argentina and arguably the entire continent. Its nickname as “The Paris of South America” draws from its cosmopolitan air, charming wide avenues with sidewalk hangouts, and chic population. It’s the ideal place to spend the end of the year surrounded by fashion and style. But to party where the Argentines are on New Year’s Eve, you’ll have to take a short trip to one of the nearby beaches, particularly Punta del Este. Dress in your fanciest, drink, and dance at some of the glitziest clubs and bars in the area. Learn to dance the tango, a must-do on any Argentina trip, and then spend the rest of the first day of the new year resting as the locals do.

Although a great milestone for celebrating the holidays, Machu Picchu is great any time of the year.

Machu Picchu, Peru

This may seem a most unconventional location for spending your holidays, but that’s exactly what makes it so amazing! Machu Picchu is great at any time of the year, but what better place to spend Christmas and ring in the new year than by gazing at and wandering the grounds of the more than 600-year-old Inca citadel? The archeological site is one of the Seven New Wonders of the World, and as such, regularly tops lists for being the ultimate travel destination. It will likely give you the inspirational boost you might be looking for! If seeing the ruins isn’t enough for you, then also look into climbing Huayna Picchu, the iconic peak that lurks in the background of most Machu Picchu photographs. However, you probably won’t be the only ones hoping to get here during the holidays, so make sure to book your Machu Picchu travel packages as soon as possible in order to snag a ticket.

The massive fireworks display of Valparaiso, a colorful Chilean town along the Pacific coast, makes it the ultimate celebration spot.

Valparaiso, Chile

Although the capital city, Santiago, might be your first stop in Chile, the real place to be for Christmas is Valparaiso just 1.5 hours by vehicle. On New Year’s Eve, the streets of Valparaiso come alive with a major carnival and spectacular, out-of-this-world fireworks display, guaranteed to add some “oohs” and “ahhs” to your Chile vacation. Almost a million audience members have been known to come out to see the presentation, so get there early if you want to find a good spot to watch the show. The next day as you are regaining your energy, relax on the hot beaches and go for a dip in the Pacific Ocean.