The Inca Trail Cuzco to Machu Picchu is one of the most well-known, and well-trod, paths in the world.

The Inca Trail once ran from Cuzco to the exclusive religious citadel of Machu Picchu, roughly 100 kilometers of well-preserved trail that the mighty Incas Empire used centuries ago.

Lush greenery is a common sight along the Inca Trail Cuzco to Machu Picchu

Now, the Inca Trail Trek from Cuzco is rarely walked completely. The vast majority of trekkers start at Piscacucho, KM82 on the train line from Ollantaytambo to Machu Picchu, nearly half-way  through the Sacred Valley.

Inca Trail trekkers sign up in Cuzco with a tour agency, which then organizes bus transport to Piscacucho. It is manadory that you go with an INC registered tour group.

It is also mandatory that you obtain an Inca Trail permit. These permits sell out months in advance, especially for the high-season months June-August, so it is advised to book well in advance. The Inca Trail permit is necessary for both The Two Day Inca Trail and The Four Day Inca Trail treks. The numbers allowed on the Inca Trail is now limited to only 500 people per day.

What is today known as “The Inca Trail” is actually only one of many Inca trails that spans the Andean Inca Empire, which was at its height in the 15^th century when the Spanish conquistadors landed.

The Incas’s advanced and well-maintained road system was one of the reasons that the Tupac Inca Empire was able to spread out from Cusco as far north as Ecuador, and as far south as Chile and Argentina. The Inca trail network expedited goods and correspondence, and rest stops and guard posts were placed strategically along the way.

The Spanish also used the network extensively. The Inca outposts, towns, and cities within direct access of the Inca Trail were the ones most easily conquered. In a sense, the extensive network leading to the key Inca outposts of the Empire was part of its downfall.

However, Machu Picchu, the spectacular citadel high atop the Andes, was spared Spanish colonialization.

Walking the Inca Trail is one of the best experiences you can have in Peru. You arrive at the spectacular Sun Gate, the entrance to the mind-blowing Machu Picchu, at 5:30am, before all the crowds and just as the sun rises.

Until my first visit I always thought Machu Picchu was over-rated, but there is something special about the place. It’s calmness and setting are unique. It´s incredible to think that a civilization that did not even use the wheel was able to build such a city in a place that modern man still struggles to reach.

One top of the mountain, you feel separated from the world below and you are surrounded by great peaks that shoot up from he valley’s ground, with snow capped mountains peaking through in the distance.

I have visited the pyramids and tombs of Egypt and this place compares without any doubt as one of the great wonders of the world.

If you are interested in an Inca Trail Trek or a Cusco to Machu Picchu tour, check out this popular tour, Peru Packages: Heart of the Inca.

It was my first trip to the town of Cusco and then Machu Picchu. I was embarking on the most well known trip in Peru and probably South America: to Cusco and Machu Picchu.

Cusco, Tambomachay, Saqsaywaman, and Qorikancha

As I left my hotel I shared the street with a flock of llamas that were being herded through the city by a local woman in traditional dress.

The city of Cusco, particularly the center has been architecturally unchanged for centuries. I immediately walked to the central Plaza de Armas. The Plaza is surrounded by grand cathedrals and churches.

The streets of Cusco

I made my way to the bus station for buses to Pisac. From here you can take buses to the sites to the North of Cuzco. For 1.50 soles I hopped aboard a bus going to the Inca sites around Tambomachay.

Travelling by combi-bus in Lima is interesting enough, but in Cusco, it is like another world. After leaving the bus station, at the first stop it filled with locals making their way to Pisac after a day working in Cusco.

The bus was suddenly packed with Quechua speaking ladies in bright colorful clothes along with their days shopping attached to their backs in the traditional Cuscenian way.

Luckily the ladies also did speak Spanish, and they kindly directed me when to leave the bus to see the ruins at Tambomachay.

It is thought Tambomachay was a place for the Incan elite to escape the city and relax with some royal spa treatment. It was here that I found a guide for the day.

Initially adamant that I would do it alone with my guide book, a young Spanish speaking guide, Luis, offered to give me a personal tour around all the sites for 20 soles, a real bargain considering I didn’t know where I was going.

From Tambomachay we crossed the road to the site of Pukapukara. It was thought that this site was used as a fortress or guard post. It was here I learned how the Inca’s communicated over long distances.

The Incas used a quipu rope-knot system for correspondence, but forts were within direct line of sight so they could also use a code by reflecting light off shiny objects, sometimes gold or silver.

My guide and I then took a combi-bus down to the site of Q’enqo (pronounced as Kenco). Luis told me that ritual sacrifices and the preparation of bodies for burial may have taken place here. At the top of the site is a huge rock that was probably used for ceremonies.

The final ruin of the day was the site of Saqsaywaman. This is the site of the famous Inti Raymi festival and is one of the grandest sites. The site was razed by the Spanish to build the Cathedral and homes for the conquistadors.

Rocks of Saqsaywaman

Saqsaywaman was the site of one of the fiercest battles between the Incas and the Spanish.

My guide took me around the site including a trip through the pitch black tunnel through to the temple of the Moon. The craftsmanship and the design are impressive. As a bonus too, the site is 2km above Cusco so you have fantastic panoramic views over the whole city.

The following day I woke up early and went to explore the remaining museums and sites in Cuzco. The highlight was a trip to Qorikancha, a temple with walls that were once gilded in gold. The site was change into a convent by the Spanish. Now it is a museum that shows some impressive Inca stonework and fantastic works of art from the Cuzco School of Art.

I went by local bus to Ollantaytambo where I would catch the train to Aguas Calientes. I sat next to an older gentleman that fell asleep on my shoulder as we wound through the mountain roads. Changing bus at Urubamba I then found a smaller combi-bus to take to Ollantaytambo.

Ollantaytambo

On arriving into the Plaza de Armas in Ollantaytambo, you are greeted by a small town that is now a key transit hub for people going to Machu Picchu.

The town is also one of the oldest continually inhabited towns in Peru, with many of the streets still exactly as they have been for centuries. The original water canals from the irrigation system of the Incas still exist – making the town very pleasant.

I walked up to the ruins before I made my way to the train station. They were very impressive, but with a night booked to stay in the town after Machu Picchu, I walked on to give me something to do later on.

Ruins of Ollantaytambo

Due to the mud slides a few months back, the train to Machu Picchu does not actually run from Ollantaytambo, so travelers go by bus from the station to the station at Piscacucho.  This will change in July though when the new tracks open. The bus journey wasn’t particularly pleasant, but there is no alternative to get to Aguas Calientes without a number of buses and a hike that would probably take a day to complete.

Aguas Calientes is a pleasant enough town. It hasn’t got much to offer, and like all towns on the route from Cuzco, they are primarily transit hubs for Machu Picchu. The surrounding mountains and the river through the middle of the town add some gloss.

Obsessed with making sure I got to climb Huanya Picchu (the big peak behind Machu Picchu), I had a quick dinner and early night so I could wake at 3.30am to make the trek up to the entrance gates at Machu Picchu for 5.30am.

After walking under the clear starry night sky for about 25 minutes I arrived at the base of the road hill to Machu Picchu. It was here that my lack on planning came to haunt me, as it is not possible to access the route without already having a Machu Picchu entrance ticket.

Tickets can only be bought at the office in Aguas Calientes or Cuzco. With the office opening at 5am I made the dash back to Aguas. By this time though, the queue for buses to the entrance gates was huge!

After riding the winding hill up to the entrance gates of Machu Picchu, and then queuing again to get in, I thought my hopes of walking that extra peak were over. Luckily though, on entrance to Machu Picchu there was just enough space to allow me to do the trail!

Machu Picchu is a calming break to the tourist hustle and bustle of Aguas Calientes.

There are very few words I can use to describe the initial experience upon entering Machu Picchu. It is just an astonishing place. There is something special about its calmness and remoteness that makes you feel incredibly privileged.

The calm of Machu Picchu

As I walked quickly towards the entrance gate to Huanya Picchu, the sun was breaking over the mountains surrounding the citadel, with the clouds sitting below the eye line. The hairs on the back of my neck stood up as I got goose pimples from the sheer serenity of the situation.

You can understand why the Incas would have constructed this place here, in honor of their gods that had placed them at the centre of their known world.

The walk up to the top of Huanya Picchu was short, but high; so many steps at high altitude took my breath away. At each stop as I turned around to see the citadel behind, I was struck even more by its beauty. At the climax of Huanya Picchu I took solitude on a rock overlooking the ruins of Machu Picchu to just ponder.

The climb and the early start had been immensely worth it.

Machu Picchu from Huana Picchu

The descent down took me back to Machu Picchu. Here I found a quite spot away from the crowds to relax and have a snooze before I went to explore the citadel. The long morning was catching up with me.

Walking around Machu Picchu, you develop a deeper appreciation of the place. To imagine the Inca’s constructing this place in such a previously remote place is baffling and a testament to the abilities of the Inca Empire. The stone masonry, the construction and the design is nothing less than beautiful.

I had the night back in Ollantaytambo, waking to go and explore the impressive fortress at Ollantaytambo. The town was also the last stronghold of the Inca’s, and the imposing ruins that are still very much intact are a testament to this.

Me being an Englishman in Peru, in need of a television to watch the England World Cup match, I embarked on a small trail of my own to find a place. In Ollantaytambo I was not too hopeful. Luckily, a local resident invited me into his home to watch the England vs. USA game with him and his family.

A perfect end to a perfect holiday, showing the best of what Peru has to offer, great people with a great past.

As I left I pondered the sheer diversity and variety of people and places in Peru, especially between the people of Lima and the people in the country.

This is a something special about this part of the world, and I left with a huge appreciation of the difficulties of Andean culture.

This Adventure Tour to Machu Picchu is a four day, three night mountain biking and trekking excursion that takes you along the back roads from Cusco to Machu Picchu. You will journey through the rugged terrain of the Andean foothills, passing glaciers and snowy peaks, not missing a single breathtaking vista, until you arrive at the nearly 8000 feet high emerald city in the sky, the dazzling Machu Picchu.

The adventure begins in Cusco, where your guide will take you to Malaga Pass, a nearly 14,000 ft peak that affords excellent views of snowy Wakaywillca Peak and Veronica Glacier.

After your Peru Adventure Tour to Machu Picchu, you'll feel like you're on top of the world.

You will gear up for a full day of thrilling mountain biking riding as your guide briefs you on the trail specifications and safety guidelines. Your guide will provide you with all the biking equipment you need. Then, hop on your bike and descend the Andean back road trails.

This is some of the most beautiful backcountry in the region, and you have a good chance of catching sight of exquisite birds like the Crested Quetzal, the sword-billed hummingbird, the scarlet-bellied tanager, the Inca Wren, and the massive Andean Condor. In the evening your guides will set up dinner and the campsite, and you can relax along the Urubamba River.

The following morning begins early with a hike from Santa Maria to the remote village of Santa Teresa. This village is tucked away from the bustle of Inca trail trekkers, and so the hike past coffee, tea, and cacao fields allows you to see a part of Sacred Valley life that is off the well-trod path.

You´ll have lunch in the Pacamayo Valley, and you may way to enjoy a refreshing swim in the Sacsara River. You will continue hiking until you reach your campsite, where you can relax and reward yourself with a delicious meal.

Rising early for another full day of adventure, you’ll take a drive to the Quechua town of Lucmabamba, and then enjoy another exhilarating trek to Patallacta, where you’ll catch your first dazzling glimpse of Machu Picchu. The tough trekking will pay off when the awe-inspiring emerald mountain comes into view.

After lunch, you´ll take a train to Aguas Calientes, the town at the foot of Machu Picchu, where you´ll be free to explore the local shops and restaurants before turning in for the night at a local hotel. You may also want to relax in the hot baths for which the town is named.

The following morning, you will want to rise early to enjoy the sunrise on the sanctuary of the breathtaking Machu Picchu. One of the few Inca archeological wonders to escape colonial hands, its exquisite stonemasonry is still intact – the mortar-less stones could not fit a razor.

You will want to spend the day exploring the Inca Bridge, the Watchman’s Hut, the Temple of the Sun, and the rest of this awe-inspiring mountaintop city before heading back down to Aguas Calientes, for a late lunch and then to take the train back to Cusco.

*Note that this Machu Picchu adventure tour is only available April to December. Trekking level is easy to moderate; good shape is needed. The mountain biking level is easy to moderate downhill; prior downhill riding experience is required. A minimum of 2 passengers and maximum of 15 per group. Departures are every Tuesday; private service on request.

See more information on the classic Inca Trail to Machu Picchu, alternative Inca Trail treks, or Peru adventure tours.

The four day trek or one day trail takes you along one of the original Inca roads to the ancient citadel of Machu Picchu, a place that was once the reserve of Inca royalty and high priests.

Inca trail availability is tight; it usually books up months in advance, especially during the peak months of June, July and August.

The numbers allowed on the trail are restricted by the Peruvian government by issuing only a limited number of permits that includes the guides, porters and chefs as well as the actual trekkers.

By restricting access to the trail the government can ensure that the trail is preserved and it gives trekkers a better trekking experience.

Currently, there are no permits available until September 2010. This changes on a daily basis, though, so check with one of our Peru Travel advisors for more up to date information.

However, if you have already booked a Peru vacation, there are a number of alternative Inca treks available that are equally as beautiful and challenging.

Many of these treks can also include a trip to Machu Picchu via the town of Aguas Calientes, the town at the base of Machu Picchu and the final stop on the Cusco to Machu Picchu train.

There are also a number of other treks that do not include a trip to Machu Picchu, but visit other impressive Inca ruins.

Well off the beaten track, treks through the Vilcabamba mountain range, offer some of the most breathtaking scenery in the remote Peruvian Andes.

Some of the routes even include recently discovered Inca towns and citadels; many have still to be excavated fully by archaeologists. Because of their remoteness, with access only after a few days of trekking, they have remained well-preserved.

Like the Inca trail trek, all the treks are fully guided, with equipment provided and with porters and chefs.

There are also a number of one day treks and adventure activities available in the Sacred Valley region that can easily be accessed from Cusco.

Whatever you decide to do, make sure you take the time to experience the best of what Peru has to offer: vistas, food and culture!

Visitors to the citadel are amazed by the architecture, craftsmanship and technological skills of the city built by an advanced civilization that did not even use the wheel.

Walking along the trail is a privilege as you pass through Inca ruins, Quecha-speaking villages, and the breathtaking Sacred Valley.

Here are our top ten insider tips for walking the trail:

1. Book in advance!
Most travel agents will always tell you to book all your vacations in advance, but this is especially important when planning an Inca Trail trip. Due to such a high demand of visitors, coupled with the need to preserve the trail, the Peruvian government has severely limited the number of visitors per day.

Only 500 people are allowed onto the trail a day. That number includes guides, porters, and cooks along with trekkers. More often than not there are more trek ‘assistants’ than actual trekkers on the trail.

As a rule we recommend that you try to book your tickets at least three months in advance, and in the high season (June, July, August) at least five months in advance.

2. What to bring with you?
You only need to take with you what you need for the trail. All tours will start from Cusco so you can leave any extra luggage that you may have with you in storage at your hotel in Cusco.

You are able to rent hiking backpacks through your trek operator or in Cusco for about $4 per day. Anything that you take with you, you will have to carry with you on the trail along with your sleeping bag.

We recommend that you take about four t-shirts (two for trekking, one of sleeping and one for emergency), a warm sweater for cold nights and mornings, gloves or mittens, a good all-terrain jacket or coat, some sweat pants, comfortable shoes, a pair of hiking pants, and socks for each day.

The sun at this altitude can be very warm so sun cream and a hat are essentials. Machu Picchu gets very hot in the day!

For those of you after a little extra luxury it is possible to rent a personal porter to carry all of your equipment for you up to the weight of 15kg.

3. Getting the most out of Machu Picchu
To make the most out of Machu Picchu you have to be there for sunrise. All treks that involve camping get you to the gates of Machu Picchu for the sun rise, with the only other people there being early risers from the town of Aguas Calientes. Day trippers from Cusco don’t arrive until much later in the morning.

As the sun rises, the Andean mist clears over Machu Picchu to show you the magical citadel in the sky. This is a sight that makes all your trekking worthwhile and fills you with an immense sense of achievement. It is a priviledge to walk in the footsteps as the innovative Incas all those centuries ago.

4. The extra trek – Huanya Picchu
Huanya Picchu is another peak available to climb from within Machu Picchu itself, providing stunning views over Machu Picchu and down into valley below.

Again numbers for this trail are limited. Only 400 are allowed up the track which takes about 90 minutes to climb up. 200 people are allowed in between 7am and 9am and then another 200 10am. Entrance is on a first come first serve basis so register your interest as soon as possible when in the Machu Picchu site.

5. When to walk the trail
You can walk the trail throughout the year, with the exception of February when the trail is closed for restoration and cleaning.

The wet season runs from November to March, yet this is the warmest part of the year. Walkers on the trail tend to experience a light drizzle that persists throughout the season. That said, many climbers have said that this adds to the mystical effect of the trail as you hike through the cloud-topped mountains. At this time of year much of the fauna is in full bloom making the colors on the trail intense.

The dry season runs from June to August and this is when the trail receives most of its visitors. At this time of year the nights and early mornings are very cold, so warm clothing is required. Less fauna is out along the trail, however trekkers are treated to much clearer views over the spectacular Andean mountain range.

You may like to time your tour to co-inside with the Inti Raymi Festival in Cusco during the Winter Solstice. The festival takes place every June.

6. Alternatives to the trek
If you have your heart set on following one of the many Inca roads, but you haven’t booked far enough in advance, it is still possible to visit Machu Picchu and complete another trail.

One of the less well-explored treks is to the site of Choquequirao. This trek takes you to an archaeological complex of enormous signicance, and it is thought to be the Incas last refuge during the final resistance of the Spanish conquest. The site is often referred to as Machu Picchu’s sister. However, because of its isolation much of the site remains unexplored and unlike Machu Picchu it is only accessible by trek, making it an isolated Inca gem.

There are many more Inca Trail alternatives available that you can read about on our Travel Blog.

The immense popularity of the Inca Trail has meant that the daily quota of trekkers now has to be limited; an essential measure to ensure that damage is not caused by potentially thousands of trampling feet a day.

Thankfully the trail is just one of hundreds of spectacular trekking options that a Peru vacation has to offer. Below are some of the fabulous treks that are not only alternative options for those who aren’t able to book a place on the Inca Trail, but fantastic experiences in their own right:

Lares Trek, alternatives to the Inca Trail, Peru

Lares
Not far from the Sacred Valley is a wonderful multi-day trek: The Lares Trail. This trail runs through the Lares valley which is scattered with traditional rural settlements against the backdrop of spectacular mountain scenery. Herds of llamas and alpacas surround the thatched stone houses, the inhabitants of which don traditional ponchos in bright and vibrant colours and rear guinea pigs that scamper freely between houses.
As such, trekkers can experience a remote and rarely visited region that gives an insight into the real lives of the Andean farmer who continue their profession much in the same way as has been practiced for centuries.
The trek itself is rated at moderate difficulty- similar to the Inca Trail. There are, however, two passes over 4000 meters above sea level, so it is essential that you are well acclimatized to the altitude before starting the trek.
After completing the Lares trail, Machu Picchu is easily accessible by train and there are also several options to return to Cusco.

Choquequirao
Moving further away from the sacred valley area but still within reach of Cusco, a trek to the ruins of Choquequirao is another most invigorating experience for those enthused by Inca history.

The 5 day trek can be tough to complete but the effort is well worth it: it glides along ridges and bridges high above the raging Apurimac river, ventures through a variety of ecosystems yet remains far below the snow capped Vilcabamba mountain range.

The pinnacle of the hike lands on the second day when time can be taken to explore the ruins of Choquequiro. This is considered to be a sister site to Machu Picchu in that it appears to have built by the Incas for very similar religious, political and agricultural purposes. The ruins are complete with a central plaza and ritual temples while agricultural works such as terracing, aqueducts and canals are still in good condition. There is a big difference between the two sites in 2009 however – while MP is revelled by thousands of tourists a day, Choquequirao sees few visitors and can still be enjoyed in relative peace. This means that trekkers can get a sense of discovering and exploring a ruin still untouched by mass tourism.

Salkantay trek, alternatives to the Inca Trail alternative, Peru

Salkantay
For those who like adventure, the Salkantay trek could be considered the most exciting route leading to Machu Picchu. Making its way around the imperious Mount Salkantay, it is an absolute feast for the senses of natural wonder. The remote path winds through an amazing variety of landscapes and habitats varying from green, rich valleys full of blossoming forests and trees of different species, to highland fields and glacial moraines flanked by steep rocky and icy peaks of impressive beauty. The trek can be done anytime of the year, but the best time is from April to December. Machu Picchu is within easy reach after completing the trek.

Ausangate trek, alternatives to the Inca Trail, Peru

Ausangate
Another mountainous trek, the Ausangate loop begins an 8 hour truck ride away from Cusco in the village of Tinqui. From here, the 5 day route traverses through valleys and past mountains, even passing just metres from glacial lakes that range in colour from midnight to sky blue.  At one point the tongue of the glacier reaches to within walking distance of the route – an enticing opportunity to explore the extensive system of ice caves contained within. Llamas and alpacas roam free along the trail and even their rare Vicuña cousins can be spotted from a distance.
It is a good idea to visit Cusco and Machu Picchu before attempting this trek in order to acclimatise to the altitude.

Vilcabamba
When Hiram Bingham was first shown the way to Machu Picchu by locals he thought he had found the Inca stronghold of Vilcabamba, where for 40 years the Inca dynasty repelled the attempts of Spanish conquistadores to destroy them. His guess was inaccurate, however, and historians now believe that the real Vilcabamba is located deeper into the jungle at a site that Bingham had in fact dismissed months before he first visited Machu Picchu.

Treks to the ‘real’ Vilcabamba are now in operation and the seven day hike is something of an exotic adventure. The majority of the trail leads through humid and tropical rainforest that is animated with colourful plants and wildlife while at times it can venture out into lush green countryside beneath snow capped peaks. All along the way remnants of the Inca Empire can be noticed – an Inca Trail towards their last seat of power.

The ruins are mostly overgrown with vines but this only adds to an authentic experience of exploring a site that is still shrouded by the mystery of its past and engulfed by dark forest. Many Inca buildings such as temples and palaces lie amidst this wild jungle, and further inspection of the site reveals a much more extensive city. It remains unknown just how far this extends and the prospect of new discoveries attracts many an historian, archaeologist and adventurer.

Huaraz
Those who concentrate on the Cusco and Sacred Valley Area risk missing out on some of the best trekking routes in the country. From the northern town of Huaraz arguably the most outstanding views in the entire Andes can be accessed. 7 hours journey by bus from Lima, Huaraz is nestled deep in the Cordilleras Blancas and is surrounded by towering and precipitous peaks. Amongst these is the mighty Huascarán, the highest mountain in Peru.
Numerous trekking operators are based in Huaraz, and they offer breathtaking hikes through the mountain terrain. Route options include: El Mirador from where Huascarán can be spotted; the Pitec Trail to Laguna Churup which leads to a pristine and crystal clear lake with glimmering reflections; and the popular Llanganuco to Santa Cruz loop which passes underneath 12 peaks that reach over 19,000 feet.  Trekking in the region can be tough but panoramic views of crisp and isolated mountain peaks will be compensation enough for tired legs.

Colca Canyon, alternatives to the Inca Trail, Peru

Colca Canyon
Only a few hours from the city of Arequipa is one of the greatest natural treasures of southern Peru: The Colca Canyon.  Famous for its stunning views, relaxing hot springs and excellent Condor lookout platforms, the Colca Canyon is a special gem usually bypassed by many travellers to the Arequipa region. The massive variety available in a trek of just a few days is what makes this trail a hiker’s favourite.  Most guided trips offer the option of a 2 to 5 day trek, some trails of which take hikers from snow-capped mountain peaks that tower over two miles (16,000 ft) high to the base of the world’s deepest canyon and then through the magical Valley of Volcanoes, where more than 80 volcanoes can be found! Additionally, the less intensive trails are great altitude training for those continuing onto treks in far northern Cuzco, minus the trailhead bottleneck and crowded campsites.