The bright blue backpacker train making its way to Machu Picchu. Photo courtesy of Challen Clarke.

It was still early, around 8am, when the blue train pulled away from the Cusco station and began heading toward the Sacred Valley. Through the large windows that line the roof and both sides of the train I watched the scenery crawl past.  Lush, green fields appeared first, followed by expansive lilac fields, and then small patches of corn.

The snakelike Urubamba River cut across the landscape, making hair pin turns around the slender trunks of Eucalyptus and willow trees that crowd its banks.  Every few minutes, the train rocked past a small settlement where women in fedoras tended to grazing cattle and sheep, or hung laundry outside their small clay homes made from the rich soil of the fertile river bed.

The lush green fields of the Sacred Valley. Photo courtesy of Challen Clarke.

After half an hour or so the valley gave way to red faced mountain peaks, towering over the now seemingly small train slowly making its way through the deep crevasses between the mountains. Bright green moss clung to the steep cliffs, shocking against the various shades of burnt orange and sienna that streaked across the exposed faces of the mountains.

The conductor maneuvered the train through two switchbacks before continuing on the path to Ollantaytambo, a small town in the Sacred Valley halfway to Machu Picchu, famous for its Inca fortress and granaries that dot the hillsides above the town.

After a short stop in Ollantaytambo, where more eager passengers climbed aboard for the additional hour and a half ride, the train lurched on. Just when I thought the scenery couldn’t possibly get any more spectacular it did. The once sinewy Urubamba turned into a roaring river resembling a stream of hot chocolate, a reddish brown flow of gigantic proportions frothing foam as it tore past gigantic granite boulders. The larger the swollen river, the greener and more lush the scenery became until suddenly we had left the mountains behind and were in the high jungle.

Passengers could sense that Machu Picchu was close, and the train became filled with a frenetic excitement.  Sleepers woke up, silent seat partners became engaged in conversations, and camcorders were pulled from the recesses of day packs and aimed out windows into the cloud forest. Long gone were the clay mountains dotted with green streaks and in their place stood lush, but harsh, jagged peaks bursting up into the sky. Oohs and ahhs could be heard as we passed the first Inca terraces and let passengers off not once, not twice, but three times to hike variations of the Inca Trail from the full four-day trek to the day-hike.

The mysterious ruins of Machu Picchu. Photo courtesy of Challen Clarke.

Soon we arrived in the town of Aguas Calientes and stepped off the train and essentially into a large covered handicraft market. Passengers who went through tour companies already had their Machu Picchu entrance and transportation tickets and beelined it for the buses, whereas the passengers who didn’t hurried through the handicraft market and scrambled through the small town looking for Plaza de Armas, the main square.

This is where you must buy your ticket for Machu Picchu if you don’t go through an agency, but be warned that a line forms very quickly in front of the ticket office and it can be a long wait in high season. Luckily the day after Christmas falls into the rainy, and therefore, slow season, so the line only took us about ten minutes.  From the Plaza de Armas we zipped over to the bus platform to wait in another long line for the bus tickets that carry travelers from Aguas Calientes to the Citadel of Machu Picchu.

Once the bus was full, we began the somewhat harrowing ascent to Machu Picchu.  Despite being brand new, the bus struggled to make it up the steep inclines and the winding one-lane road led to close head-on encounters with buses heading in the opposite direction. At one point, a passenger in the front let out a scream when faced with an oncoming bus, and then quickly laughed and apologized to the other, now terrified, passengers.

The bus crawled to dizzying, impossibly high heights, allowing for quick glimpses of Inca terraces and ruins tucked into the mountains. After about 20 minutes on the winding path, we arrived to the gates of Machu Picchu and began the hike to the stone city in ruins named one of the new Seven Wonders of the World.

For help planning a Machu Picchu tour, or to arrange transportation and entrance tickets to Machu Picchu by train, please contact one of our Travel Advisors who can help you plan your Peru vacation.

Overview of the Machu Picchu ruins.

The award was announced last week in Jamaica at the 17^th annual World Travel Awards, described by the Wall Street Journal as the “travel industry’s equivalent to the Oscar’s.” Other places nominated for the award included:

• Abrolhos, Bahia, Brazil
• Amazonas Tur, Brazil
• Caracas, Venezuela
• Fernando de Noronha, Pernambuco, Brazil
• Georgetown, Guyana
• Manaus, Amazonia, Brazil
• Pantanal, Mato Grosso, Brazil
• Patagonia , Argentina

Over the years, the term ecotourism has been used as more of a marketing tool than an actual way to evaluate the practices of businesses and destinations. It is often applied to a wide range of places that don’t necessarily meet the criteria of being truly eco-friendly. Genuine ecotourism focuses on responsible forms of travel that help conserve the natural environment and work to improve the lives of local people.

These awards go a long way in honoring those destinations, and their respective government bodies, which demonstrate the extra effort required to keep these historic marvels available to future generations.

Over 185,000 tour operators worldwide voted in the category to name Machu Picchu South America’s leading green destination of 2010. The previous year’s award was won by the Amazon Tours in Brazil. The award will formally be presented on 7^th November in London, at the World Travel Market.

For more information on Machu Picchu tours, contact one of our Travel Advisors who can customize your trip to Peru, as well as suggest many other green South America travel destinations.

Soon to open... Machu Picchu

Peru For Less, along with our partners at Peru Rail and the Peruvian tourism authorities, are delighted to announce the much anticipated reopening of Machu Picchu.

Confirmation has been received that rail access to the base town of Aguas Calientes is due to be restored by 29 March, with the site itself being reopened on 1 April.

Following flooding earlier this year, engineers have repaired vital sections of train line, meaning that access is now possible by bus from Cusco or Ollantaytambo to Piscacucho, followed by train to Aguas Calientes.

A number of temporary measures remain in place: certain classes of train are restricted for weight reasons, meaning that only 5 Vistadome train services can run per day.

For this reason, Peru For Less is advising travelers to consider traveling from 5 April onwards. We are also pointing out that due to the limited availability of seats, not all first choice of schedules can be guaranteed.

Peru For Less is advising clients that the final section of road between Ollantaytambo and Piscacucho is unpaved and rough, although has been declared safe for use.

Peru Rail is operating the bus connections and is transferring all prior rail tickets to the new bus service. The company expects to have restored normal rail access by July.

Although Peru For Less is confident in these plans to restore access to Machu Picchu, we are keen to highlight the importance of purchasing travel insurance to cover any changes or cancellations to travel plans.

The following information should help clients with their travel plans. For any additional questions, please contact a Travel Advisor on travel@peruforless.com or 1-817-230-4971

Map

Peru Rail Route from Cusco to Machu Picchu

Schedules

Cusco to Machu Picchu Tempoary Schedule - Valid From March 29th to April 30th 2010

Machu Picchu to Cusco Tempoary Schedule - Valid From March 29th to April 30th 2010

Frequently Asked Questions

Are the roads that we will use to reach the train safe?

The road from Cusco to Ollantaytambo is a paved, well-maintained and scenic road that is perfectly comfortable and safe to use.

The road from Ollantaytambo to Piscacucho is unpaved and therefore a bumpier, less comfortable ride, but is also declared safe to use.

How long will it take to reach Machu Picchu this way?

According to the temporary schedule (see above), a transport leaving Cusco at 6am will arrive at Aguas Calientes by 9:31am.

Will this travel arrangement shorten our time in Machu Picchu?

Unfortunately, yes. Availability of seats is out of Peru For Less’ control, but we will do our best to secure our clients the best and most convenient tickets. For those who want to make the most of their visit, it’s possible to book an extra day in Machu Picchu. Please talk to your travel advisor for further details.

Please note that all information is provided by Peru Rail and the Peruvian authorities, and remains subject to change. Peru For Less endeavors to provide accurate and up-to-the-minute information but cannot be held responsible for information changes beyond our control. This page will be updated with new information as it becomes available.

The famous view of Machu Picchu, Peru. Photograph: Matthew Barker 2009

By far the most convenient way to visit Machu Picchu is with a provider of Peru vacation packages, but for the most adventurous and those with a decent grasp of Spanish, it’s possible to find your own way there and track down a guide on the day.

Since its re-discovery in 1911 by Hiram Bingham, an American explorer working for Yale University, Machu Picchu has become the stuff of legends; an iconic image in the minds of millions, with all its connotations of adventure, exploration and mythical ancient history.

Surprisingly though, the reality of Machu Picchu is much more down-to-earth. Recent archeological investigations have suggested that the site was not a center of spiritual and religious importance, as was previously assumed.

In fact, some archeologists are now suggesting that Machu Picchu was originally intended as a center of learning, a kind of Inca University or better yet, a grand and very elaborate holiday resort for the empire’s nobility.

Nevertheless, it remains undisputed that Machu Picchu is one of the best preserved, most intriguing, and jaw-droppingly beautiful archeological sites in South America and the entire world.

Part of the citadel’s allure has always been its inaccessibility, located deep within Peru’s Sacred Valley, surrounded by unforgiving mountains and plunging valleys complete with dense sub-tropical forest and gushing rivers.

Mountains and jungle behind the walls of Machu Picchu, Peru. Photograph: Matthew Barker 2009

Thankfully, accessing the site these days is much easier, not least due to the train line which was extended to the modern town of Aguas Calientes at the mountain base. It is now possible to arrive at Aguas Calientes by train, spend the night in this busy, tourism-oriented town and catch an early morning bus up to the citadel itself the following day.

Most visitors are keen to arrive at Machu Picchu as early as possible, and although the first bus ($14 return) departs at around 5:30am, the keenest are in the queue from as early as 3am.

Taking things this seriously is probably only worthwhile if you intend to climb Machu Picchu’s sister mountain, Huayna Picchu on the same day: entrance is limited to 400 people per day and tickets sell out very early. Otherwise, aim to be in the queue from around 5am and you’ll still be able to make an early bus and catch the citadel before most of the crowds arrive.

Before reaching the ticket office you’ll find a number of guides ($15-20 for 2.5 hours) most of who tend to be very professional and knowledgeable, although the standard of English can be inconsistent. Information inside the site is non-existent, and for this reason alone, consider booking your trip in advance with a Peru tours operator with a guaranteed standard of tour guide.

Most guided tours last for around two and a half hours and will include a comprehensive circuit of the site. You’ll start at the Watchman’s Hut, which offers the best views of the site (the ones that are on all the postcards) before making your way towards the northern, and highest, edge of the citadel where some of the most important relics remain: the Temple of the Three Windows, the main temple, the Intihuatana (sun rock) and the Sacred Rock, all of which line the central, grassy main plaza.

Recent progress in the field of astro-archeology has revealed a great many new lessons in the nature and layout of Machu Picchu, and your guide will be able to point out some of the many alignments of these important points with the stars and the solar system.

Of particular significance are the points on the surrounding mountains that align with the citadel during important solar-phases, including the summer and winter solstice.

In addition, along the opposite mountain ranges to the south, you’ll be able to see the last stages of the celebrated Inca Trail, as it leads down from the Sun Gate towards Machu Picchu itself.

Once your tour is complete, you have the option to walk the ‘wrong way’ up the Inca Trail towards the Sun Gate, where you’ll be rewarded with a different (and much less crowded) perspective on the site.

Alternatively, you can make the short hike to the Intipata, or Inca bridge, around 45 minutes away from Machu Picchu. The bridge is constructed along the face of a cliff and offers some stunning views of the surrounding landscape. Unfortunately the bridge itself has been closed to the public for safety reasons.

Sunset over Machu Picchu, Peru. Photograph: Matthew Barker 2009

If you have the time, consider sticking around for the rest of the day, and relax in one of Machu Picchu’s quieter corners. There is just one thing as impressive as sun-rise over the citadel: sun-set.

While visiting Machu Picchu, be sure to remember the following considerations:

- The citadel is a protected site of significant historical importance. For this reason strict restrictions exist on what can be taken into the site, including plastic bottles, metal-tipped walking poles and large backpacks (these can be stored at the ticket office for $.50)

- On-site services including toilets, food and drinks are non-existent and outside the ticket office, the prices are high. But you are permitted to bring your own food and drink in a small day-sack.

- Peak visiting time is from around 10am to mid-afternoon. Before and after these times, the crowds are much thinner, and the queues for the return bus journey are much shorter.

Our introduction to the jaw-dropping scenery of Peru’s Sacred Valley began long before we started our expedition along the Lares trek. Just getting to base camp entailed a drive up through winding mountain roads, passing a string of Inca ruins and rustic villages where we stopped for bread and other provisions in preparation for our four day hike deep into the wilderness of the Peruvian Andes.

Passing a herd of llama on the first day of the Lares Trek, Peru. Photograph: Matthew Barker 2009

We’d only been hiking a few minutes before a steady drizzle started to fall, forcing us to stop and unpack our waterproofs from the mules. “Rain down here means snow up there,” said Luis, our guide, who pointed up the distant valley with a wry grin.

From the tiny settlement of Huaran we immediately began the steep, one thousand meter climb that would continue all day until we arrived at our first camp. Following a trail that hugged the edges of a fast-flowing river we entered a long, steep corridor of cloud forest leading up to the glacial peaks of Cancha Casa and Chicon that dominated the valley head.

Insisting that we keep a slow, steady pace, Luis began to share some of his vast knowledge of the area, pointing out the darting hummingbirds, explaining the symbiotic partnership between the bromeliads and their tree hosts and revealing the medicinal properties of the various plant life that lined our trail.

As we ascended the steep trail we could see the environment altering around us; flowering plants became less frequent, the trees became ever smaller until they resembled dwarfed stumps and the climate began to change, the wind picked up and a sharp chill entered the air.

But before we reached the tree-line itself it was time to break for some lunch. Meals during a Peru trekking tour are a logistical miracle, with a caravan of porters and mules racing ahead to set up kitchen and have a hot meal ready and waiting for the group’s arrival.

We replenished ourselves on a high energy lunch of steaming soup, sandwiches, fruit and cake before loading up again to continue the ascent until eventually emerging from the tree-line and out onto the rocky no-mans land between cloud forest and glacier, under the shadow of the snow-capped mountains ahead.

We traversed this landscape for four steady hours until the trail led us into the miniscule village of Cancha Cancha, a settlement typical to this area of high Peruvian altiplano where llama and alpaca herding is the main occupation and braving the biting cold is a way of life.

The local children ran out to meet us as we entered the village, while the weary herds of animals showed more caution. Despite still being early, around 5pm, the sun had already disappeared behind the mountains and the evening cold had set in. It was here that our earlier shopping for all those famous Peruvian souvenirs; wooly hats, gloves and ponchos, proved its worth.

A llama watches the sunet on day one of the Lares Trek, Peru. Photograph: Matthew Barker 2009

Before dinner was served, Luis pointed yet further up to the highest, snow-covered point of the mountain pass. “That’s where we’re heading tomorrow,” he declared. “As far and as high as you can see, in that direction!”

After an enormous meal of spicy soup, chicken, vegetables and mashed potato, our group sat in the dining tent, huddled for warmth with a cup of rum in hand, to listen to Luis’s descriptions of the folklore associated with the surrounding mountain ranges and later, explanations of the star constellations shining vividly overhead.

But the night was too cold for star gazing and by 9pm we were all in our tents, inside the sleeping bags and cozily wrapped up from the harsh elements of the altiplano.

Day 2: 15km, Cancha Cancha (3800m) to Quishuarani (3700m)

We started the following day in luxury, having been woken at 5:30am with coffee and a bowl of hot water brought to our tent by our tireless porters. After filling up on breakfast and loading the mules we began the steady climb towards the first mountain pass of the trek.

As we rose towards the peaks we passed by a handful of youngsters, out keeping watch over herds of llamas and alpacas, before leaving all traces of civilization behind us. Up here there was nothing but Andean geese, a large native mountain bird called the Cara Cara, and oversized, stone-colored rabbits, the Viscacha, to keep us company.

As we hit the snow-line our trail took us past a series of large, natural caves in the mountain side. Luis explained that this spot is from where his spiritual ancestors were said to have originated, emerging from the cave carrying maize seeds, water and coca leaves, signifying the most important aspects of life in this region.

View from the first mountain pass on the Lares Trek, Peru. Photograph: Matthew Barker 2009

Finally reaching the highest point of the Pachacutec pass at 4700m, we were rewarded with stunning views across two valley systems, while far below us lay a set of dazzling turquoise lakes. It was up here that Luis stopped to make a ceremonial offering to the mountain gods, the apus, lighting a small fire to burn incense, sweets, coca leaves and other important gifts which would help ensure our smooth passage through the mountains.

After skirting around the mountain peak we began the steady thousand meter descent back below the snow-line and towards our second camp, stopping again for a large lunch before arriving after a full 8 hours hiking in the small settlement of Quishuarani.

Quishuarani was a slightly larger settlement than the previous night’s camp and we were treated to such luxuries as cold beer and chocolate from the village store. As on the previous night, the local youngsters were fascinated with their strange-looking visitors and we spent a couple of hours handing out gifts of coloring books and pencils to the younger kids, while learning a few musical tricks from the older ones, expert players of an Andean ten-stringed instrument called the charango.

Our second camp was also blessed with a small shelter, constructed by the local reserve authority to encourage more visitors to the area, which offered us a warmer environment to eat dinner and share a few mugs of rum with our vivacious guide and a few local villagers.

“Right! I’m going to teach you one of our Andean games!” Luis roared across the table, signaling the start of a long, happy night of dice games and rum drinking that lasted into the small hours.

Day 3: 20km, Quishuarani (3700m) to Lares Hot Springs (3100m)

After our late night we emerged the following morning with startlingly clear heads – perhaps a benefit of the fresh mountain air. “Everyone needs to fill up with a good breakfast,” Luis instructed, “and take plenty of water too. We’ve got a big day ahead of us.”

It was good advice: from Quishuarani we made the most demanding hike of the trip, tackling an incredibly steep incline that took us up to Hullquicasa which, at 4400m above sea level, was the second big mountain pass of our trek.

We were back above the snowline here, although the sun and the sheer physical exertion had everyone sweating buckets. In fact, we were concentrating so hard on getting up the mountainside, we almost missed the astonishing landscape we’d just walked into.

“Now look behind you,” Luis coolly suggested as we clambered, spluttering and wheezing, to the highest point of the pass. The view was almost unbelievable, as though we’d walked into a painting: the mountain fell away from us into a long, wide and grassy valley, dotted with brilliant blue lakes that reflected the skies like shimmering mirrors. Semi-wild horses, ancient stone buildings and small herds of llamas dotted the foreground, while in the distance was a never ending range of jagged mountains and snow-topped peaks.

View from the second mountain pass of the Lares Trek, Peru. Photograph: Matthew Barker 2009

This was a perfect spot to catch our breath and replenish ourselves on some high-energy snacks. But our smug self-congratulations for having made it up such an impossible climb were shattered by the arrival of an elderly lady, a local to the area, who was virtually running up the trail, a baby wrapped up on her back and a toddler pattering along beside her.

“Napaykullayki!” she called over, the regional Quechua greeting, shooting us a toothy grin as she raced past and down the other side, quickly becoming a small, colorful dot in the landscape.

Shamed into action, we clambered back onto our feet and began the descent down into the next valley. The trail passed dozens of small, perfectly calm lagoons and a swift river that eventually turned into a sequence of increasingly impressive waterfalls. Along the sides of the valleys were wide screes of boulders and rocks that had fallen from the mountain sides and now provided an ideal home for bounding families of the Viscacha rabbits who were entirely oblivious to us as we walked by.

Stopping for a short break next to one of these lagoons, the peace was disturbed by a suddenly animated Luis, breaking his cool for a rare, excited moment to point out the enormous condor circling above our heads.

The condor, the largest flying bird in the Americas, is a creature of immense spiritual and symbolic importance to the indigenous people of the Andes, as Luis’ reaction made clear. “That is a sign of real luck, my friends!” He beamed at us. “The condor isn’t so common in this range, but the mountains have certainly blessed us today!”

After stopping for lunch at the river-side village of Cuncani, we continued along the downward trail, following the river towards the Lares valley itself. During the wet season, this onward journey is usually split across two days, but thanks to the dry conditions we were able to continue walking for much longer.

After Cuncani the trail returned us to the tree-line and re-entered the more humid and milder climate and ecosystem of the Andean tropical forest. The path snaked through farmland and rustic agricultural settlements before dropping again, into the more settled and tamed environment of the Lares valley.

Entering the Lares Valley, Peru. Photograph: Matthew Barker 2009

Before long, the river had become a gushing torrent, fuelled by the glacial waters running through the valley which itself had become increasingly lush, the trees grew taller, the undergrowth thicker, and the sounds of birdsong returned to the breeze.

Eventually, rounding a corner along the valley’s edge we were presented with the most welcome sight in days: our camp, already set up by our outstanding team of porters, situated directly next to the series of therapeutic hot springs that make the village of Lares famous.

This was luxury in the true sense of the word and as we stripped out of our mud-clad trekking gear and into the hot showers and pools to rest our weary muscles, it was hard to suppress our grins of absolute contentment.

Day 4: 8km, Lares Hot Springs (3100m) to Inca Ruins

Having completed an extra stretch of hiking the following day, our final day on the trek was a much more relaxed affair, starting with another dip in the springs before making the gentle walk away from Lares along farmland towards some nearby Inca ruins.

The easy trail was a good chance to rest our legs after the demands of the previous few days, as well as catch a glimpse of rural life in the Andean pueblos that we were passing. Occasionally we came across snapshots of times gone by, a paved trail created during the days of the Inca, or a cliff-side cemetery where the bodies of nobles were buried, along with rich offerings to the same mountain gods to which Luis had prayed.

The trail eventually led us to a small village which marked the end of our trek. Here we reacquainted ourselves with the modern world (crossing a road was a novelty, the sound of a car was startling,) unloaded the mules and gave our deep and sincere thanks, along with a healthy tip, to the porters who had worked so hard to make our experience such a memorable one.

Luis stayed with us for the road journey back to Ollantaytambo, a town which had seemed so tiny five days ago, but which felt like a buzzing metropolis when we returned. Here, all that was left was to shake Luis’ hand, thank him for being such an outstanding guide, and catch the train for our much anticipated Machu Picchu tours, the final piece and pinnacle of our Sacred Valley adventure.

How Best To Enjoy Your Peru Trekking Experience:

While planning for Peru vacations, consider that operators for Peru tours and treks abound, but the quality and levels of service can be highly inconsistent. For the best standards in safety and comfort, do your research before you leave and check the online reviews for international providers of Peru vacation packages.

The Inca Trail is by far the most popular route, but the Lares trek is just one of many less-busy alternatives, including the long and spectacular Salcantay trek, or the much shorter Chacan trek.

When packing for your Peru trek, make sure to bring the following essentials:

- Waterproofs, both for yourself and for your daypack,

- Educational or healthy gifts for the kids you’re bound to meet on the way,

- Suitable water bottles or canteens for the drinking water that is usually provided,

- A head torch to keep things well lit up and your hands free,

- Plenty of good quality, warm layers that you can add and remove as the temperatures swing from very warm to freezing cold,

- A good quality, all-seasons sleeping bag and a sleeping bag liner, both of which can be hired in Cusco.

Sure, our Peru vacations have to include Machu Picchu tours as a must-see. But for those with more time to spare and a keen interest in Peru’s long and fascinating ancient history, consider a visit to some of these alternative archeological spots to broaden your Peru travel experience.

The Kuelap Fortress near the Chachapoyas region of northern Peru

Kuelap Fortress

Near Chachapoyas, northern Peru

Created towards the end of AD 900 and taking several hundred years to finish, the vast fortress at Kuelap is a perfect example of the sophistication and might of the pre-Inca Chachapoyas civilization.

The fortress itself occupies an enormous surface area, over one kilometer long and rivaling the size of almost all other ancient structures in the Americas. At 3000 meters above sea-level, the fortress was once an enormous symbol of power that dominated the Utcubamba Valley.

The site contains the remains of some 400 structures, most of which are in a ruined state although some reconstruction work has taken place, to give visitors an idea of the site’s former glory.

The fortress occupies a green, lush landscape and many of the walls contain original decorations. In certain areas, the local style of constructing spherical buildings was replaced by the Incan rectangular style, suggesting a long-forgotten history of war and conquest.

Access to the site is tricky but can be easily arranged by a Peru tours operator.

Entrance $3.

The unique Chan Chan Ruins near Trujillo, Peru (Photo: Wikimedia Commons)

Chan Chan

Trujillo, northern Peru

Further south from Kuelap, on Peru’s northern coastal plain near the city of Trujillo, is the ancient city of Chan Chan, a World Heritage Site that is thought to be the largest ancient city in the Americas.

Constructed entirely from adobe, the city has been remarkably well preserved thanks to the arid desert environment which is only threatened by occasional El Niño tornados.

The city was constructed by the Chimu civilization between AD 800 and 900 and thrived with tens of thousands of inhabitants until the Incas arrived in the mid 15^th century.

The remaining structures consist of ceremonial buildings, graves and tombs, religious structures and dwellings. The city was carefully planned to exploit the weather and sunlight as well as to provide protection against the coastal winds. Its tall walls give the city a maze-like feel and the many wall carvings and decorations reveal an intricate and masterly level of craftsmanship.

Access to Chan Chan is easy from the city and transport hub of Trujillo and guided tours can be arranged.

Entrance $3.50.

Caral: The oldest city of the Americas, near Barranca, Peru

Caral

Near Barranca, north of Lima

Around 200 km north of Lima lies the oldest city in the Americas, the monumental desert city of Caral.

A city-state which developed during the same time of the civilizations of the “old” world, Mesopotamia, Egypt, India and China, recent discoveries at Caral have overturned many previously accepted theories of ancient history and the rise of human civilization.

The site was re-discovered during the mid 20^th century but received very little attention due to the relative lack of retrievable artifacts. It was only with detailed investigation that the complexity of Caral’s pyramids and other structures including temples and an amphitheatre was revealed.

Likewise, a number of discoveries have revealed a complexity to ancient civilization that archeologists long assumed never existed this early in the Americas. Finds revealed that the Caral people were a peaceful civilization who had developed advanced systems for trading and accounting.

Depictions of monkeys and other jungle animals suggest that the Caral people had trading links that reached far into the Amazon, discoveries that have forced scholars to rethink many long-held beliefs about Peruvian ancient history.

Tours to Caral can be arranged from Lima or by any international Peru tours operator.

Entrance $3.

Tucume

Near Chiclayo, northern Peru

The site of Tucume is another ancient pyramid complex which spans several hundred acres and includes several dozen structures and man made hills. The site was the scene for several successions of civilizations and was originally inhabited from around AD 800 by the Sican people, followed by the Chimu, before the Incas arrived in the mid 15^th century.

Many local folkloric tales add to the site’s sense of mystery, known locally as “Purgatory” from the Spanish attempt to convert indigenous people to Christianity by constructing fires atop the mounds and claiming it to be purgatory itself.

To this day, many superstitious locals refuse to visit the site but access is easy from the town of Chiclayo.

Entrance $2.

Batan Grande

Also near Chiclayo, northern Peru

Also established by the Sican people, Batan Grande is the source of the vast majority of ancient Peru’s golden artifacts as well as home to dozens of pyramids dating from around AD 800.

The site is now a national park and includes an ancient stretch of the Pomac Forest which offers a tranquil and relaxing environment, plus opportunities for horse riding and camping.

There is also a good museum which provides a fascinating insight into ancient life in this region.

To get to the site, take a taxi or bus from Chiclayo.

Entrance $3.