Then to my excitement, I learned that a certain type of eatery is particularly well-liked by Peruvians: chifas. These are Chinese restaurants, not to be missed on your Peru vacation if you really want a specific idea of Peruvian culture, that have been popularized since the mid 19th century when hoards of people from southern China’s Guangdong and Macau regions immigrated to Peru to work as laborers. Since I was born in Hong Kong and raised by a mother who never let me forget the fact, I was beyond eager to see just how authentic chifa dishes are to the Canton specialties I was used to.

The barbecue meats in Lima's Chinatown (Barrio Chino) are quite true to taste and texture.

BBQ meats: I found out that not only is Lima full of more than 6,000 chifa restaurants in all of its districts, that there is even a Barrio Chino (Chinatown) near the historic city center sure to stand out in your Lima trip! The short street had all the atmosphere of a Hong Kong market street down to the details of hanging meats in the windows and mooncakes for sale behind the counter. As it happened, then, my very first Peruvian meal was actually a taste of home! The small plate of barbeque duck meats and roasted sausages we ordered was absolutely identical and authentic to what I had eaten all my life and earned my expert eating seal of approval.

Wonton soups in Peru's chifa restaurants are on a playing field of their own.

Sopa wantan: The next two times I had a chance to eat out, I just had to try sopa wantan (wonton soup), arguably the most common starter seen on any chifa menu. Wontons, marinated seasoned ground pork or beef enveloped within a flour wrapper, are staples of any Guangdong diet. Both times when I received my hot bowl of soup and meat dumplings, they looked true enough to form. However, while the soup was always satisfyingly savory, the wontons themselves only disappointed. Apparently in Peruvian chifas, wontons are just pieces of carelessly wrapped white chicken breast rather than rich morsels of red meat. This appetizer is not entirely deniable, but it certainly lacks the spirit and character of a true Canton wonton soup.

Lomo saltado, or stir fried lean beef, is a true example of Peruvian and Cantonese Chinese tastes.

Lomo saltado: The name itself is Peruvian Spanish and so is the dish. Second perhaps only to chaufas (stir fried rice), lomo saltado can be found at any chifa. At its essence, it is composed of marinated beef strips, some light vegetables, French fries, and with a side of white rice. The uniquely delicious mixture of these elements, particularly the inclusion of French fries, makes lomo saltado both distinctively Cantonese in style but entirely Peruvian in flavor. That is to say, although this dish is not authentic to the culture that inspired it, it is unquestionably the ultimate example of Asian fusion cuisine great for rounding out your Peru trips.

Farmers in Peru are currently in the process of sending 1,500 varieties of the vegetable to a “doomsday vault” in the Arctic Circle in order to safeguard the future of the potato. Samples will be stored inside a vault within a mountain, to protect the crop against natural and human disasters. In this way, Peruvians hope to guarantee the availability of potato diversity for future generations. The first stage of the three-year project involves training papa arariwas (conservation farmers) in pollination techniques to produce botanical potato seeds. These seeds will be dried, cleaned, and then packaged in foil packages to preserve them in long-term cold storage conditions.

An Andean farmer displaying a few varieties of potatoes

The seed samples being sent to the Svalbard Global Seed Vault will be provided by Parque de la Papa (Cusco Potato Park). This unique park in the beautiful Andean city near Machu Picchu covers more than 24,710 acres (10,000 hectares) and was organized by six indigenous communities to defend food security in the region. Featuring every imaginable shape, size, and color potatoes, the park protects a crucial part of the regional culture. Parque de la Papa has attracted plant breeders from all over the world, who come to Cusco searching for traits such as disease resistance, flavor, or nutritional properties for their own crops. However, in recent days, the park’s “potato guardians” collective has feared that climate change may harm the crops.

One of the varieties that will be stored in the Svalbard Global Seed Vault is known as the “bride’s potato.” Its unusual name dates back to Incan times, when a bride was expected to peel this potato to prove that she had the necessary skills to be a good wife. Other strands of potato have particular nutritional value, like the red moro boli, which is high in antioxidants, while potatoes, like the ttalaco, a long, banana-shaped tuber, can be distilled and turned into a potato alcohol.

On average, indigenous residents of the Cusco Potato Park consume 4.4 pounds of potatoes per day, or more than 1,600 pounds annual. Compare that to the average American, who eats a mere 131 pounds per year (yes, including French fries and potato chips). You can enjoy a few pounds at the eco-park’s all-organic restaurant, Papamanka, meaning potato pot, which is housed in a new building with a large open kitchen, wood stove, and wooden counter where purple, white, black, and yellow potatoes are on display in ceramic dishes. Run by a women’s association aiming to preserve traditions and recipes, the restaurant serves delicious dishes like cream of corn soup made with huancatay (a local herb sometimes called black mint), grilled alpaca meat, and potato pudding made from potatoes, milk, sugar, and mint. The women continue to demonstrate a deep respect for their crops. For example, cutting a potato without eating it is viewed as an insult to pachamama (Mother Earth) that will bring bad luck.

Purple Peruvian potatoes

The farming practices in Peru are intertwined with deep cultural rituals and traditions. Each potato, it seems, had its own special or ceremonial use during Incan times. There were specific potatoes to eat at baptisms, weddings, funerals, and other events. Potatoes are both a cultural and biological legacy. Some have compared sending the seeds to Svalbard with sending family members to distant place for safekeeping, in case it becomes necessary to be saved by them in the future. This sort of potato passion can be observed during the annual harvest in Aymara each year, which celebrates their prized crop with carnival floats, colorful costumes, traditional dance and music, and shouts of “la papa es Peruana,” meaning “the potato is Peruvian!”

To understand the zeal for Peru’s potatoes, taste one during a Peru vacation by contacting one our knowledgeable travel advisors.

Peruvian food is the very definition of fusion cooking, mixing influences as diverse as Spain and Europe, Afro-Caribbean and Creole, plus the wide range of local traditions, including a costal love affair with fish and seafood, the hearty potato and corn dishes of the highlands and the steamy tropical traditions of the jungle.

Aju de Gallina, a classic Peruvian dish of chicken in a rich yellow chile sauce

It is in Lima where all these influences converge into one great gastronomic melting pot, and the food markets of Peru’s capital are the most exciting places to begin your exploration into one of the world’s best culinary cultures. Here are just a few of the less-visited and more authentic food markets which will make a rewarding few hours during your stay in Lima.

Barranco's Festival Gastronomia, Lima, Peru. Photograph: Matthew Barker 2009

Festival Gastronomia

All day every Sunday, Plaza Municipal, Barranco

A small but busy and highly atmospheric food market that starts early but only really picks up after dark, Barranco’s Festival Gastronomia is a typical market that draws a local crowd. Each stall offers their own unique range of dishes, including all the most popular Peruvian treats, plus a mouth-watering range of Peruvian desserts.

Helpfully, each stall has a display of their specialties, meaning you can easily choose the dish that takes your fancy, even if you don’t know its name. The market has a cash desk, signed Caja, purchase your food tickets in advance and exchange them at a stall for your chosen dish.

Highlight: freshly prepared lomo saltado, a delicious dish of pan fried beef strips, tomatoes and onions, served on top of fresh papas fritas (thickly French fries). 10 Soles ($3.50).

Mercado Surquillo

Daily, Avenida Paseo de la Republica, Surquillo

In the suburb of Surquillo, a short taxi ride from Miraflores, is Mercado Surquillo, a bustling, authentic and HUGE food market, to which locals flock for the best quality food at great, low prices. The range of fresh Peruvian fruits and vegetables will have you baffled, but the stall holders are friendly and helpful and will happily explain what everything is, and how they are prepared, but be sure to polish up on your Spanish phrasebook first!

Highlight: marveling at the enormous range of fish and seafood on offer before heading upstairs for some freshly prepared ceviche, perhaps Peru’s most famous dish of sliced fish marinated and cooked in a juice of limes and chilies, served with juicy corn and large slices of sweet potato. 10 soles.

Ceviche, Peru's signature dish, is made from fish marinated in the juice of limes

Bio Feria, organic food market

Every Saturday from 8am, Parque Reducto, Miraflores

Organic ingredients are a fast growing phenomenon in food-loving Lima and the place to catch the best ingredients is the Bio Feria organic market in the pleasant surroundings of Parque Reducto. The market boasts everything from breads and coffee to freshly prepared meals, all vegetarian and delicious!

Highlight: Vegetarian enrollados (tortilla wraps) prepared on the spot with fresh organic vegetables from the market and tasty fried vegetarian “gardenburger”. All wrapped in a wholesome tortilla and topped off with 5 different homemade sauces. 8 soles.

As a result, many of the structures are only one or two stories high, conveniently allowing for uninterrupted 360 degree views of the city’s stunning lunar-like surroundings.  Perhaps this is why Arequipeños have a reputation of being fun, lively, and always enjoying the best things in life with a devil-may-care attitude, from spicy foods to stylish shopping and a memorable nightlife; they never know when the towering giant El Misti Volcano will awake from its slumber!

With underlying strains of fierce independence (the city once tried to create its own flag and passport) and historically strong identity, it is hardly a surprise that Arequipa’s residents encourage respect and sometimes outright envy from many across the country.

The two defining elements of Arequipa? Its stunning beauty and its excellent regional culinary traditions, from Incan recipes still popular today such as rocoto relleno (stuffed pepper) and cuy (guinea pig) to rich chowders (chupes) that change daily depending on tradition; and sweet stuff, like creamy queso helado, chocolates and honey-bathed fritters.

Well aware of the popularity of Arequipeño cuisine within the rest of Peru, we researched the city’s most popular restaurants, to bring you the best variety of the city’s delicious dishes.  With picanterías (traditional cafes) on virtually every dazzling white corner and archway, excellent food is hardly difficult to come by, but (and in no particular order) here are some of Peru For Less’ favorite picks!

The city's colonial Plaza de Armas, Arequipa, Peru

Sol de Mayo:
Located in Yanahuara, the nicest neighborhood of the city, this institution of Arequipa dining has been around for more than a century.  Not only are the meals a delight, but so is the entire dining experience, with colonial style tables set in a leafy white-walled courtyard adorned by geraniums, a gurgling waterfall and strolling musicians to serenade you throughout the evening.  Traditional Arequipeño cuisine is Sol de Mayo’s specialty, with a diverse menu offering the best recipes of the region, from fresh shellfish and ostrich, to chicharron de chancho (fried pork) and a variety of tantalizing ceviche. Splurging here is highly recommended and unlikely to break the bank, as all meals cost less than $15.

Contact:
Jerusalén 207
Yanahuara
054/254-148 (reservations recommended)

Ary, Quepay:
This husband and wife – run restaurant has the winning combination of a fun dining atmosphere and a delicious menu.  With the great authentic ambiance of a traditional Arequipeño picanteria, live folklorico music every night and only the greatest classics of Arequipa cuisine on the menu, this rustic garden-themed restaurant is an excellent argument for the popularity of the region’s dishes.  Not to be missed are the restaurants’ starters of choclo con queso (white corn with cheese) or egg-based sopa a la criolla, followed by the traditional stuffed pepper, escabeche de pescado (spicy fish stew) or roasted guinea pig. Ideally located in the city center, this restaurant is popular among both locals and tourists ‘in the know;’ making it a more convenient and cheaper option than those on the outskirts of town.  Main courses cost from S/.12-27, or US$ 4-9.

Contact:
Jerusalén 502
E-mail: restaurant@aryquepay.com
www.aryquepay.com/restaurant.htm

El Turko II,

A huge favorite  known for its delicious cuisine and eclectic menú offering a variety middle eastern specialties such as falafel, baba ganush and hummus, plus other delicious fusions such as alpaca prepared by wok or smothered in coconut milk sauce, shrimp tagliatelle, crispy Mediterranean salads to cuy bathed in spicy chocolate adobo.  The surroundings in this classy establishment are a nice escape from what some view as Arequipeño rustic kitsch; the marble tiled cavernous rooms in the chic Turko II lead to a large sunny courtyard perfect for relaxing from hectic travel and merely enjoying the view. With many vegetarian options to choose from as well, this restaurant is a great choice for those unwilling (or unable) to agree on any one type of cuisine! Main courses priced between S/.12 and S/.36 (US$ 4-12)

Contact:
Calle San Francisco 315
054/ 215-729

A hearty serving of chupe de camarones, Arequipa, Peru

Tradicion Arequipeña:
The stunning view of the snow-capped El Misti volcano from Tradicion’s garden balcony is reason enough to make a taxi trip out to this popular restaurant, but a taste of the delicious spread will reassure any doubts!
Offering only lunch (or very early dinner options), proof of this restaurant’s excellent kitchen comes from the fact that much of the tourists who dine here get their recommendations from city natives. Servings of traditional Arequipeño and Peruvian food are substantial and satisfying, with the extensive menu including tasty versions of classic standbys like adobo, ceviche and cuy. Meals are reasonably priced given the elegant atmosphere and excellent location, from S/.12-39, or US$ 4-13.

Contact:
Av. Dolores 111
Paucarpata
054/246-467

La Trattoria del Monasterio:
Divided into three small rooms carved into the white ashy walls of the Santa Catalina Convent, this new addition to the Arequipa dining scene is an excellent antidote to endless recommendations of cuy and alpaca; or for those in search of a less touristic and more intimate candlelit dining experience.  Boasting an excellent menu designed by Peru’s most famous chef, Gaston Acurio of Astrid and Gaston and La Mar, this unassuming café specializes in Italian favorites like lasagna, risotto and osso bucco.  Additionally, conoscitore guests also have the option of long or short pasta. With a fine wine list and desert menu to round out the meal, La Trattoria guarantees a memorable evening of a different sort, in downtown Arequipa. Main courses priced between S18-36, or US$6-12.

Contact:
Santa Catalina 309
054/204-062

Los Gauchos Parilladas:
not for those in search of a light and balanced meal, this rustic-styled restaurant located right off the main Plaza de Armas serves up hearty, stick-to-your ribs meals for the very hungry.  In addition to a free salad bar, this restaurant also periodically offers a great lunchtime promotion with wine, soda, fries, open salad bar and any choice of meat for under $9. (S/. 25).

Contact:
Portal de Flores Nº 112
054/220-301
http://www.elgauchoparrilladas.com