Day 1: Arrive to Peru & Fly to Cusco

Machu Picchu may seem like a far away, unreachable destination, but on the contrary, it’s very accessible. Even if you don’t have much time, you can easily organize your trip and check it off your travel list for 2012 in just a weekend! International flights arrive in the airport in Lima, the hectic and vibrant capital of Peru. From there, you can catch a connecting flight to Cusco. The flight is only a little over 1 hour to reach the magnificent former capital of the Inca Empire where you can spend the night and relax.

Day 2: Visit Cusco

In Cusco, you’ll revel in the myriad luxury hotels, delicious restaurants, and most of all, the impressive architecture. From the grandiose Cathedral and tall, resplendent church of La Compania de Jesus on the main square, to the marvelous Inca stonework of the Korikancha temple and 12 Stone Wall, Cusco is one of the highlights of any Peru vacation. It is best to spend at least one day in Cusco to get acclimatized to the altitude and visit its many wonders before you start on your Machu Picchu travel adventure.

Day 3: Machu Picchu & Overnight in the Sacred Valley

Rise early and catch the train to Machu Picchu for one of the most unforgettable travel experiences of your life! You can take the train around 5 a.m. in Cusco and reach Aguas Calientes, the town at the foot of Machu Picchu, in about 4.5 hours. From here, Machu Picchu is only a quick 20-minute bus ride away. The train and bus ride themselves make for an incredible journey through the beautiful highlands of Peru.

You’ll arrive in the morning at the ruins and have the entire day to explore the site. If you wish to learn more about the history of this majestic fortress and its former inhabitants, it’s best to hire a guide who will provide you with all details and insights you can ask for because there are no informational signs on display among the ruins. Tours generally last around 2 hours, leaving you time afterwards to explore the ruins on your own. Don’t forget to hike up to the Sun Gate, the highest point of the archeological site, for the most beautiful views of Machu Picchu and the surrounding Andean range.

Once you’ve had your fill of the ruins, just hop on a bus down to Aguas Calientes and catch a train back. For a full Machu Picchu holiday experience, stop in Ollantaytambo and spend the night in the Sacred Valley of the Incas, once the mighty empire’s agricultural breadbasket. You can also visit the impressive Inca fortress that still sits in this small village and relax in the beautiful Andean countryside before returning to Cusco.

Day 4: Return to Cusco & Fly to Lima

In the morning, you can take the train to Cusco and fly back to Lima to catch you flight back home. If you have some time to spare, make sure to hop into town and take a look at Lima’s modern Miraflores district for some shopping, or the historic district to admire the colonial architecture. International flights often depart at night so you may even have time to try some of the delicious restaurants in town. We recommend Astrid y Gaston for a full Peruvian gastronomic experience, or the restaurant at the Huaca Pucllana ruins.

Read more about how to get to Machu Picchu or contact one of our travel advisors to start planning your trip today!

There are several ways to travel from Puno and the magnificent Lake Titicaca region to the ancient city of Cusco, former seat of the glorious Inca Empire. Although not the shortest or cheapest travel option, the train is without a doubt the most wonderful.

PeruRail, the local train company, operates the only trains between these two major Peru travel destinations. The 10-hour ride through the majestic Andean range and spectacular green landscape that characterize Peru is truly a once-in-a-lifetime experience.

The journey started early in the morning so we were required to be at the station at 7:30 a.m. From there we boarded the most beautiful train I had ever seen, called the Andean Explorer. The renovated wagons were formerly part of the world-famous Orient Express train company and they still retain their classic, elegant charm with wooden interiors, dim lights, and cozy chairs. We were seated by a welcoming staff, and as the train departed for its long journey, we were offered a hot beverage and breakfast treat to start the day.

10 hours may seem like a long time but they were gone in the blink of an eye. We were kept entertained during the entire trip from Puno to Cusco, first with a colorful traditional music show in the bar wagon. Most of the passengers, and me alike, were eager to admire the stunning landscape through the observation car, with its large windows and opened back. The train travels at a leisurely pace which allowed us to admire the scenery. I felt like I was being transported back to the 19^th century in the heart of the American Midwest during the Gold Rush.

Around noon, we were asked to seat again and enjoyed a delicious several course gastronomic meal. From starters to dessert, all dishes were absolutely fantastic, freshly prepared and inspired by traditional Peruvian cuisine. After a quick nap and time gazing in awe through the windows, the bar opened and we learned how to make the notorious national drink of Peru, the Pisco sour.

After some more music and even a glamorous fashion show, the train made a quick halt in a local handicrafts market in the middle on the countryside, surrounded by mountain and green fields. The market itself is a bit touristy, right on the train tracks, but it’s also the sole means of survival for the local population so everyone made a point to buy a little something. They had beautifully woven textiles, hats, and alpaca sweaters, as well as hand-made jewelry and other handicrafts.

After hopping back on the train, we tranquilly continued our journey toward Cusco, enjoying tea time and a small snack around 4 p.m. We made it to Cusco around 6 p.m., right in time to enjoy a relaxing evening in the city. This Peru vacation experience was one of the most unforgettable, and definitely worth the splurge!

The train travels every Monday, Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday from April to October; and every Monday, Wednesday, and Saturday from November to March. Travelers can depart either from Cusco or Puno.

I recently had the chance to visit the Peruvian highlands for the first time, and the experience was richer than I ever imagined. After a breathtaking 12-hour train ride from Lima to Huancayo, the cultural and geographical heart of Peru more than 10,730 feet above sea level, my friends and I took a few days to explore the Andean countryside and enjoy its rural charms.

The Andean highlands of Peru provide some of the most stunning views and authentic cultural experiences in the country.

Beyond the incredibly friendly people and spectacular green and golden landscape of the Mantaro Valley, we also got to indulge in the most iconic Peruvian foods, directly from the origins of their source. As well, learning about the Andean handicrafts gave a fascinating insight into the old traditions that have been passed on generation upon generation. So whether you find yourself in the Andes in the northern city of Chachapoyas, Huancayo in the center, or Cusco in the south on your way to an Inca Trail hike or Machu Picchu holiday, be sure to experience some of these outstanding cuisines and arts.

Food

Noodle and grain-based soups, both vegetarian and meat options, are extremely popular starters throughout Peru.

Hot soups – In many areas, clean and fresh water is difficult to come by and the days and nights can get seriously chilly depending on the season. Therefore, the locals really enjoy hot soups as part of their meals because the water must first be boiled, and they make for warm, cozy dishes. Whether you are coming in from a tiring day of trekking in the mountains or exploring the streets on a Cusco tour, a bowl of hot soup is sure to relax your entire being, not to mention a delicious starter with which to whet your appetite.

Papas a la huancaina – Peru is known for its literally thousands of varieties of potato types. Of the many potato dishes, one of the most popular in the country is papas a la huancaina which originated from the cold Andean regions. Potatoes are first boiled, then either served whole or in slices depending on their size. The defining characteristic is the savory, mild, bright yellow cheese sauce that is poured over them. The taste of the first bite took me back a bit, but soon I devoured the entire appetizer plate and wished for more!

Fresh river trout is an indulgence many love to enjoy away from the coast.

Trout – Although the Peruvian coast is known for its diverse seafood dishes, the internal highlands have varieties to call their own as well. The crisp mountain rivers provide fresh fish for the local populations. A particularly popular  dish is trout, which should not be missed on any  trip to Peru and the Andes. We didn’t get to stop by the famous trout farm in Ingenio just outside of the town of Concepción, but the trout ceviche (raw seafood “cooked” by being marinated in lime juice and spices, largely considered the national dish of Peru) I had from a street vendor in the Cochas Chico village was definitely tasty.

Cuy – One of the most unique foods to be tried on a Peru vacation and particularly the Sierra is cuy, which means guinea pig. The little creatures sell for about $10 per plate—a bit more than a typical meal otherwise, but the taste is worth trying at least once. It really does remind of chicken, but with more tiny bones. A cuy body filet is prepared grilled and usually accompanied by white rice and/or a side salad.

Handicrafts

The artisanal work that comes out of central Peru is some of the most skillful to be found.

Gourds – The village of Cochas Chico just a short 15 minutes outside of Huancayo is known for its skilled gourd carving arts. Many of the gourds are grown and dried in the nearby area, but others are imported from other areas of Peru, each with their own distinctive shapes and sizes. It was amazing to watch elderly artisans (including a man of 70 years!) flawlessly sketch on the dry mate burliados, and with such incredible detail! Scenes are usually of the pastoral and agricultural lifestyle and includes celestial motifs, farm animals, and land workers.

Silver – San Jeronimo is a tiny village, but its vibrant silver works speak for themselves. From delicate jewelries to decorative knick knacks, the crafts definitely tempted my wallet. If you first need some time to think about your purchase, you can also later buy at the artisanal markets back in in Huancayo.

Wool weavings – Small and tranquil little Chupaca has a weekly Saturday market that brings plenty of colorful characters and handiwork crafts from around the area. I managed to snag a good deal on a white woven cap and 3 pairs of thick, handmade wool socks for incredibly low prices. They should keep me sufficiently warm on the rest of my Peru travels!

Previously, if one wanted to visit Peru’s lovely Paracas National Reserve or the Islas Ballestas, it required a 4-hour bus ride down the coast from Lima. Then, to see the mysterious Nazca Lines, travelers took another bumpy land-route 3 hours further to the town of Nazca.

Those wishing to continue their Peru vacation onto Cusco had to return to Lima for their internal flight, or submit to a long and arduous bus trip across the Andes.

Thankfully, the new flight paths eliminate these inconveniences.

Travelers can now take a 30-minute flight from Lima to Pisco. From Pisco they can enjoy the nearby Paracas Bay and its famously rich marine wildlife. Many choose to book a boat tour to the Ballestas Islands (sometimes referred to as Peru’s Galapagos) to admire the resident Humboldt penguins along with one of the largest sea lion colonies in the world.

Also, short-distance flights that skim over the Nazca Lines now operate out of Pisco itself. This is a slightly more expensive but much more convenient option than traveling all the way to the town of Nazca, which has little to offer other than its airport.

An aerial view is the best way to experience the legendary Nazca Lines, which are massive geoglyphs of animals, humans, and geometric shapes constructed by the Nazca civilization sometime between 400 BC and 700 AD. Despite being studied by modern-day experts, no one knows why these massive designs were constructed.

For more suggestions or information on a Paracas and Nazca Tour contact a Peru For Less travel advisor.

Moray's Inca terraces sculpted in the earth

Testament to the overpowering Inca Empire, which conquered the country and imposed its rule even beyond the boundaries of Peru, stand spectacular archeological sites such as world wonder Machu Picchu. While borrowing techniques from earlier conquered civilizations, the Incas also brought their own ingenuity to Peruvian architecture, creating stunning stonework to replace the precarious and simple adobe construction of earlier periods.

If not for the greed of the Spanish conquerors who insisted on dismantling the work of the Incas to replace it with their own, many buildings would still be standing. The most spectacular work of the Incas can still be seen in Cusco, where massive carved walls fill the streets, and in the Sacred Valley, which holds true treasures in most of its villages. Moray’s sculptured terraces and Ollantaytambo’s canchas (city blocks) are truly sights to behold.

Although the Spanish conquest destroyed some priceless and timeless work from earlier civilizations, its own architectural achievements are worth praising, with absolutely stunning colonial buildings scattered throughout the country. The old center of Lima is particularly impressive, with well-preserved churches from the early colonial times, such as San Pedro, La Merced, and San Augustin, accompanied by striking casas coloniales (opulent colonial mansions) still standing in the historic quarter.

European Renaissance and Baroque movements also reached Peru, with beautiful testaments to these influences still adorning many cities. The Cathedral and Santa Clara church of Cusco are striking remnants of the Renaissance period, while Arequipa holds some of the most beautiful treasures from the Baroque period, such as the churches of Santa Rosa and San Augustin. Arequipa is also widely recognized as Peru’s most attractive colonial city, with its historic center almost entirely built with the stunning local sillar, a white volcanic stone that has given the city its nickname as the “White City.”

The famous Casa de Fierro by Gustave Eiffel in Iquitos

Surprisingly, one of the most influential architects in Peru was actually a famous Frenchman, Gustave Eiffel, known worldwide for his majestic iron tower dominating Paris. His works can be admired throughout Peru, from Tacna and Moquega’s fountains on the main square, to the Casa de Fierro (Iron House), a two-story iron mansion in Iquitos. This last work, originally built for the 1889 Exposition in Paris, was purchased by one of Iquitos’ rubber barons who had it dismantled, shipped and reconstructed in the jungle settlement. Eiffel also designed a number of other bridges and buildings, which can be found in the Peruvian Amazon and Chile’s Atacama region. His most impressive marks on the Peruvian architectural landscape are without a doubt the Bolivar Bridge and San Camilo Market in Arequipa.

A few post-modern artists have also emerged in Peru in the recent years, albeit limited to the Lima region. One of the most significant architects is Bernardo Fort-Brescia, co-founder of the world famous and avant-garde Arquitectonica Company based in Miami, responsible for some of Lima’s most intriguing structures. The most noteworthy is arguably the gigantic Marriott Hotel, a green-glass arch in Miraflores overlooking the Pacific Ocean.

For more information about Peru’s fascinating history and culture, or to explore more Peru travel opportunities, contact one of our travel advisors who can help you customize your vacation.

Farmers in Peru are currently in the process of sending 1,500 varieties of the vegetable to a “doomsday vault” in the Arctic Circle in order to safeguard the future of the potato. Samples will be stored inside a vault within a mountain, to protect the crop against natural and human disasters. In this way, Peruvians hope to guarantee the availability of potato diversity for future generations. The first stage of the three-year project involves training papa arariwas (conservation farmers) in pollination techniques to produce botanical potato seeds. These seeds will be dried, cleaned, and then packaged in foil packages to preserve them in long-term cold storage conditions.

An Andean farmer displaying a few varieties of potatoes

The seed samples being sent to the Svalbard Global Seed Vault will be provided by Parque de la Papa (Cusco Potato Park). This unique park in the beautiful Andean city near Machu Picchu covers more than 24,710 acres (10,000 hectares) and was organized by six indigenous communities to defend food security in the region. Featuring every imaginable shape, size, and color potatoes, the park protects a crucial part of the regional culture. Parque de la Papa has attracted plant breeders from all over the world, who come to Cusco searching for traits such as disease resistance, flavor, or nutritional properties for their own crops. However, in recent days, the park’s “potato guardians” collective has feared that climate change may harm the crops.

One of the varieties that will be stored in the Svalbard Global Seed Vault is known as the “bride’s potato.” Its unusual name dates back to Incan times, when a bride was expected to peel this potato to prove that she had the necessary skills to be a good wife. Other strands of potato have particular nutritional value, like the red moro boli, which is high in antioxidants, while potatoes, like the ttalaco, a long, banana-shaped tuber, can be distilled and turned into a potato alcohol.

On average, indigenous residents of the Cusco Potato Park consume 4.4 pounds of potatoes per day, or more than 1,600 pounds annual. Compare that to the average American, who eats a mere 131 pounds per year (yes, including French fries and potato chips). You can enjoy a few pounds at the eco-park’s all-organic restaurant, Papamanka, meaning potato pot, which is housed in a new building with a large open kitchen, wood stove, and wooden counter where purple, white, black, and yellow potatoes are on display in ceramic dishes. Run by a women’s association aiming to preserve traditions and recipes, the restaurant serves delicious dishes like cream of corn soup made with huancatay (a local herb sometimes called black mint), grilled alpaca meat, and potato pudding made from potatoes, milk, sugar, and mint. The women continue to demonstrate a deep respect for their crops. For example, cutting a potato without eating it is viewed as an insult to pachamama (Mother Earth) that will bring bad luck.

Purple Peruvian potatoes

The farming practices in Peru are intertwined with deep cultural rituals and traditions. Each potato, it seems, had its own special or ceremonial use during Incan times. There were specific potatoes to eat at baptisms, weddings, funerals, and other events. Potatoes are both a cultural and biological legacy. Some have compared sending the seeds to Svalbard with sending family members to distant place for safekeeping, in case it becomes necessary to be saved by them in the future. This sort of potato passion can be observed during the annual harvest in Aymara each year, which celebrates their prized crop with carnival floats, colorful costumes, traditional dance and music, and shouts of “la papa es Peruana,” meaning “the potato is Peruvian!”

To understand the zeal for Peru’s potatoes, taste one during a Peru vacation by contacting one our knowledgeable travel advisors.

This is pisco sour.

Pisco sour, Peru’s national drink, is an intoxicating cultural symbol and point of pride for Peruvians. Each year on the first Saturday in February, the country lifts its glass and celebrates Pisco Sour day—a day inevitably filled with free-flowing pisco sours, mixing competitions, live music, and general merriness.

Powerfully delicious pisco sour.

Pisco, the clear grape brandy and main ingredient of its namesake cocktail, dates back to the 1520s. Historians say the drink was first mentioned in the will of a landowner from Ica, a wine-producing town in southern Peru. Experts believe local farmers created pisco when, rather than wasting low-quality wine that could not be exported, they distilled the already fermented grapes to create a highly alcoholic drink. The word pisco most likely comes from a Quechua word for a particular type of bird common in the Ica area. Pisco is also the name of a port city near Ica, where some of the best pisco in the country is still produced.

The history of pisco sour is more recent. The drink was first concocted in Lima in 1920 by American expatriate Victor Morris. Some believe the drink was an attempt by Morris to recreate the familiar taste of a whisky sour with locally-available liquor. Whatever his intentions, Morris created a masterpiece. The basic recipe requires pisco, an egg white, simple syrup or sugar, lime or lemon juice, and Angostura bitters.

Despite all signs pointing to Peruvian origin of both the liquor and the cocktail, there is disagreement over pisco derivation: both Peru and its northern neighbor Chile claim the drink as their own. The quarrel can be traced back to colonial times when the area was one viceroyalty of Spain, with no border distinction. Pisco vineyards may have begun in Ica, but the process was quickly replicated throughout the viceroyalty, including what is now southern Chile. Also, Chile can be legitimately credited for marketing the drink and creating an export market; it exports nearly 50 times more pisco than Peru. These nuances have caused big disputes in South America and Peru has even gone so far as to issue a “Defense of the Peruvian Denomination of Origin ‘Pisco’” which can be found on Peruvian government and embassy websites.

Regardless, pisco from both countries is potent and delicious. Try making your own pisco sour by following the recipe below, but remember: the smooth-tasting pisco ranges from 60-100 proof and packs a punch. So take care, or you might lose yourself in an ocean of pure pisco delight.

Typical Pisco Sour Recipe:

• 2 ounces of pisco
• 1 egg white (or one teaspoon pasteurized egg whites)
• ½ ounce regular syrup (or one tablespoon sugar)
• ¾-1 ounce lime juice
• Angostura bitters

For a sweeter drink, add more sugar. For a drier drink, add more lime. Mix liquid ingredients well with ice. Top with bitters and enjoy!

To taste a truly Peruvian pisco sour, contact one of our travel advisors to discuss Peru travel opportunities.

The beautiful Cerro Baul outside of Moquegua

Located in the driest part of Peru, merging with Chile’s Atacama Desert, the Moquegua region houses extensive mineral reserves, and is home to one of Peru’s largest copper mines, Cuajone. The nearby Rio Moquegua surprisingly delivers enough water for farming in the surrounding rural area, with vast productions and exports of olives, pisco, avocados and apricots.

With its narrow cobbled streets, attractive plaza, and adobe houses with roofs made of thatch and clay, the colonial city of Moquegua is a real pleasure to explore. There is not much to do but stroll down the streets and soak up the tranquil atmosphere of this quaint settlement.

Admire the picturesque Plaza de Armas, or main square, beautifully shaded by tall ficus trees, and adorned with a surprising metal fountain designed in 1877 by world famous architect Gustave Eiffel. Take a peek into the beautiful Catedral de Santo Domingo restored in 1868 after a devastating earthquake and featuring on one of its towers the first clock to arrive the village, from London, in 1798. Passing through the doorway of the church, you can enter the Museo Contisuyo, where the permanent exhibition of hundreds of artifacts lays out over 12,000 years of history in the region.

Previously isolated from the rest of Peru, Moquegua is now well connected with several bus companies serving the area. Buses from Lima (16/20 hours), Arequipa (4 hours), or Puno (8 hours) all come to this small yet lovely region, where travelers will get a sense of the true Peruvian life style. Just off of the Panamerican highway, Moquegua is easily accessible, yet far enough away to remain off the tourist radar, making for a unique trip experience.

Moquegua is also a fantastic departure point for amazing hikes in the region. Adventurous visitors take the 15 minute ride to Cerro Baul up the Tunilaca Valleyma. The climb up Cerro Baul is a bit strenuous, but the view from the top on a clear day is breathtaking and worth the effort. Cerro Baul is also covered by interesting Wari ruins. If you do not fear strenuous walks, the Mollesacha waterfall Catarata de Mollesacha and the gorges in reddish purple stone behind Cerro Los Angeles in the Torata valley are definitely worth a visit if you have a day to spare.

The delicious Cuy Chactado

Moquegua is known for cuy chactado, breaded guinea pig fried under a heavy flat rock, one of Peru’s most famous dishes. Don’t be put off by the Moquegua style cuy, which comes whole with claws and teeth, as you are likely to be surprised by its excellent taste, similar to chicken. There are several cuy restaurants in town which generally feature pleasant outdoor areas overlooking the green farmland. People from Moquegua insist that the finest pisco comes from Moquegua. Make sure to try another of Moquegua’s specialties, damascos, apricots marinated in pisco.

For more information about what to do in Moquegua and its surroundings and to learn about more Peru travel opportunities, contact one of our Peru travel advisors at Peru For Less.