Patallacta (Llactapata)

Only a few hours of hiking on your first day will lead you to the first superb Inca site.  Patallacta (also called Llactapata) sits on the far left bank of the Cusicancha River, a tributary of the river Urubamba. This archaeological complex was first noticed by the Western world in 1912 when famous Yale University archeologist Hiram Bingham – noted for rediscovering Machu Picchu the year before – stumbled upon it.

Llactapata means “high town” or “town on the hill” in Quechua, which is the Incan language still spoken in some parts of the Andes today. The complex sits at an altitude of 9,318 feet (2,840 meters) and contains massive terraces and hundreds of housing structures. It is believed this was a common stopping point for Incas traveling from Cusco to Machu Picchu. From your vantage point across the valley, you’ll be able to fully appreciate the site’s beauty and expanse.

Runkurakay

On the morning of the third day on your Inca Trail trek, you’ll huff and puff your way up the Runkurakay Pass. At the top, this pass is 13,000 feet (3,950 meters) above sea level. About halfway up you will come across the Runkurakay ruins.

These ruins are a small circular complex, a design not common in Inca architecture. Experts believe this site was a tambo, which means it likely served as an inn. It is probable that Runkurakay was primarily a resting, refueling, and relay station for messengers. Refueling stations like this were vital for maintaining communication across the Inca Empire. Chasqui messengers were specialized runners who dashed along Inca roads, carrying important messages—such as the encroachment of the Spaniards.

Sayacmarca

Later on, you will reach Sayacmarca, another impressive site. To enter these ruins, you’ll climb up 98 stone steps carved into the side of the mountain. Also called the “Inaccessible Town,” this site is barricaded on three sides by steep drop-offs. No one is sure how the Incas used this site, but it was originally built by the Colla civilization.

Sayacmarca sits on the edge of a cliff, giving visitors a panoramic view of the scenic Aobamba Valley. The site is divided into two main parts: the Sun Temple and the residential part, consisting of a labyrinth of narrow corridors. The Incas improved upon the Colla construction by building an elaborate water canal to supply the temple and houses with water.

Phuyupatamarca

The sites just keep coming! After Sayacmarca, you’ll journey through an inclined stone tunnel to reach the third and final mountain pass of your third day on the Inca Trail. Enjoy the spectacular view from the top before descending a steep set of stairs to reach Phuyupatamarca, which means “town in the clouds” in Quechua.

These ruins cling to a ravine overlooking the Urubamba Valley, and are surrounded by large and lush terraces. The site is often half covered in a mist that rises from the forests below, creating the impression that it is floating on top of the clouds. This mystical place is full of ceremonial baths, plaza, buildings, and bridges.

Machu Picchu

Let’s hope you haven’t tired of ruins, because the most impressive site of all awaits. On your fourth and final day on the Inca Trail you will finally reach the magnificent Machu Picchu citadel. Words are not sufficient to express the extreme beauty of this site, so you’ll just have to experience it for yourself!

For more information about trekking in Peru and the sites you’ll see, contact one of our expert travel advisors.

Mist rises over the terraces of Choquequirao, Peru. Photograph: Matthew Barker 2010

Welcome to Choquequirao, a site of equal, if not greater, importance to the more famous ruins of Machu Picchu, as well as significantly larger and incomparably more remote.

Choquequirao, which means “Cradle of Gold” in the native Quechua language, is thought to have acted as the administrative and military capital of the Vilcabamba region, and eventually as the rearguard of the Inca as they retreated from their strongholds in Cusco and the Sacred Valley towards the jungle, desperately resisting the Spanish conquest.

Thanks to its isolation, a full two days hike from civilization, the site receives a fraction of the visitors that make the journey to Machu Picchu. When I arrived at the gates in the late afternoon, there was not another soul on site. Around 8,000 people visit annually – compared to the almost one million visitors that arrive at Machu Picchu each year.

The route begins in the small town of San Pedro de Cachora, a farming settlement surrounded by rolling hills where life seems to have gone untouched by the passing of time. The campesinos here still live in rough adobe-walled homes, the smell of smoke from indoor fires fills the air, and the sight of three gringos passing through is still enough to raise eyebrows and a few friendly smiles.

After loading mules with our equipment, our guide Sergio insisted on marking the start of our journey with a small ceremony. Splashing a few drops of the barely palatable, but enormously popular chicha beer onto the ground, Sergio called on the traditional Andean gods of the mountains and mother earth to give us safe passage. “With the permission of the Apus and the protection of Pachamama,” he called, and then we were off, on the long march to Choquequirao.

Rising away from settled farmland and into an increasingly severe landscape, the ancient trail eventually brought us out onto a perilous ridge, skirting the side of a deep, broad canyon. Several thousand feet below was the thundering Apurimac River (which literally means “talks to mountains” in the native Quechua language). Despite the distance we could still hear its roar, swollen with the melt water running down from the glaciers and snowcapped mountains that towered above our heads.

Eventually our ledge began to descend. Entering a humid, semi-tropical forest we got the first real sense of moving away from the Andean altiplano towards the high jungle, and eventually, several days away, the beginnings of the Amazon: the frontier of the Andean world, where the Inca ultimately sought their final refuge.

The trail to Choquequirao leads from the mountains towards the jungle below. Photograph: Matthew Barker 2010

After a long descent we arrived at the valley floor and our first campsite, on the banks of the river. Down here the mosquitoes swarm like they do in the jungle, but there remain echoes of the Andean world that we had left earlier – chicha was still for sale at least. We tried another glass; a lukewarm and milky beer brewed from corn which has been activated and fermented by human saliva. No matter how many times you try it, the taste never gets any better.

The campsites, like route itself, are well-maintained and equipped with facilities not found on most other Andean trails. The campsites all have running water, shower and toilet blocks and even small shops selling snacks and drinks.

Despite this unusual degree of luxury, the sites were all but deserted and we spent the first evening alone, with nothing but the sound of the Apurimac as company.

But no amount of comfort the night before could have prepared us for the sheer physical ordeal of the second day. From the valley floor to what seemed like the roof of the world, a sheer, never-ending uphill struggle to Choquequirao.

To deal with such a steep incline, the trail is forced into an almost infinite series of zigzagging turns and as the strain builds, each turn starts to blend into the last. The distance between ourselves and the river seemed to stay fixed, as though we were merely walking on the spot. As the stinging sweat dripped into my eyes, the climb became less a physical challenge, and more of a mental battle. Just keep walking… Just make the next bend… Just take one more step…

Taking multiple stops to fill up on water, nuts and dried fruit, we dragged ourselves through this purgatory for hours, until eventually we crawled out onto the level track that leads towards the stone gates of Choquequirao.

Stepping into the site’s fully-restored central plaza for the first time made our earlier ordeal well worthwhile. With not a single other person anywhere to be seen, we suddenly found massive reserves of energy to explore the ruins. From the plaza, deep rows of agricultural terraces reach down back into the surrounding valleys, while rising above on a small mound is the ceremonial rock.

“Have you got enough strength to go and see the llamas?” Sergio cried. “Yes!” we yelled back. And back down the mountainside we went. Choquequirao’s llama rockwork is fast becoming the site’s signature feature, and as the setting sun cast its red hue over the terraces, giving the stone llamas a luminous glow, we understood why.

Llama rock work on the terraces of Choquequirao, Peru. Photograph: Matthew Barker 2010

“We don’t find designs like this anywhere else in Inca architecture,” Sergio explained. “Who knows why they did it here. Maybe they were trying to restore some glamour to their failing empire, maybe it was the tradition of earlier civilizations like the Chachapoyas who lived here before. I guess we’ll never know.”

It takes at least a full day to fully explore the entire site of Choquequirao and after lunch on the third day we were ready to leave and begin the long downhill journey back.

The fastest and simplest way to leave Choquequirao is to follow the original trail back to San Pedro de Cachora but we chose to vary the route and head in the opposite direction, crossing the Apurimac further downstream at an old colonial hacienda called San Ignacio.

Back in the sub-tropical environment of the valley, the trees of San Ignacio were alive with the screech of parakeets, the branches dripping with mangos and avocados. As we unloaded the mules a commotion broke out among the porters, pointing back across the valley from where we’d walked. Somehow, on that distant wall of rock a porter had spotted a tiny black dot and identified it as one of the region’s most elusive and rare creatures, the spectacled bear.

“I’ve lived here my whole life and I’ve only seen four of those!” a porter told me with a flash of excitement that is rare among Quechua-speaking indigenous Peruvians.

As the twilight faded into the night we sat down for one last meal with our guide, the porters even producing a carton of wine, and we enjoyed our memories of the trials and tribulations of the previous days. We had a few more hours of walking until our pick-up at Huanipaca the following morning but the hard trekking was over; finally we could relax and enjoy our achievement.

Sure, we hadn’t toughed it out alone – with our porters, mules and running water campsites, we’d enjoyed the trekking equivalent of a luxury hotel. But we didn’t care. We’d fought our own minds and bodies and hiked to Choquequirao, one of the most important but under-visited sites in the Andes. We were proud.

The classic, 4 Day Inca Trail Hike leaves from Piscacucho at Kilometer 82 on the trail line from Cusco to Machu Picchu. The whole trail is about 39 km (25 miles) in total, with about seven hours of walking a day including camping. The second day of walking is said to be the steepest and most difficult.

But trekkers on the Inca Trail Hike are well cared for. All camping equipment, such as tents, sleeping mats, and food, are carried by your trek porters. It is also possible to rent a personal porter to carry your backpack (up to a maximum of 15kg).

It is manadory that you go with an INC registered tour group, which then organizes bus transport to Piscacucho. There are a number of different agencies that all offer different levels of service and quality of equipment.

The views on the Inca Trail Hike

It is also mandatory that you obtain an Inca Trail permit. These permits sell out months in advance, especially for the high-season months June-August, so it is advised to book well in advance. The Inca Trail permit is necessary for both The Two Day Inca Trail Hike and The Four Day Inca Trail Hike . The numbers allowed on the Inca Trail is now limited to only 500 people per day.

Below you will find Detailed Information on the Inca Trail Hike:

Day One

On day one of this Inca Trail hike you will leave Cuzco and be taken by bus to Piscacucho KM 82.

The trail starts as you cross the Urubamba River. You will walk past the small community of Miskay and onto the ruins of Patallacta – known as the Village in the Heights. The village has many Incan terraced fields that served the Incas centuries ago. On day one you camp at Wayllabamba.

Day Two

After waking and having breakfast on this Inca trail hike, you will make the way from Wayllabamba to Pacaymayo. This part of the trail is the most difficult, it being the steepest.  As you set out you will see the trail zigzagging in front of you, but you will also begin to see the fantastic scenery that can be viewed all around you.

Day Three

This is the final day of real walking, and takes you from Pacaymayo to Wiñayhuayna, which is only a short walk from the Sun Gate of Machu Picchu. You will pass the Inca tomb of Runkurakay and the ‘Inaccessible Town’ of Sayacmarca, which is a set of ruins that are actually cut into the rock. It is only accessible by walking a steep, solid staircase that is actually cut into the rock. You will also pass Conchamarca and the site Phuyupatamarca before you head towards the ruins of Wiñaywayna where you will camp for your final night.

Day Four

On the final day you rise at 5am to make your way to the Sun Gate, to reach the gates of Machu Picchu before all the day trippers from Aguas Calientes and Cusco, and to see the sun rise over the citadel.

To see the sun rising over the ruins and the surrounding mountains is a sight that is very difficult to describe. You feel as if you are in the heavens, looking down over the world in the valleys below.

The Inca Trail Hike is a journey back to the times of the Incas, and a highlight of any trip to Peru!

See more Detailed Information on the Inca Trail Hike and Inca Trail Hike FAQs.

Some of the most remote and exciting Peru adventure treks can be found in the Vilcabamba mountain range, a few hours drive from Cusco, where the mountains are characterized by steep ravines, dense, almost tropical vegetation and some of Peru’s most isolated and impressive ruins and archeological sites.

Choquequirao on one of the new Peru trekking adventure routes in Vilcabamba. Photograph, Matthew Barker 2009

This new range of Vilcabamba treks offers adventure lovers a chance to stray away from the crowds and venture deep into untouched territory. All of the treks range from a moderate to challenging activity level: ideal for the physically fit and active, or for experienced trekkers who want to push their boundaries.

One of the many attractions of the Vilcabamba mountain range is the area’s richness in history and archeology. This region was the last refuge of the Inca as they retreated from Cusco during the Spanish conquest. It is here that visitors can find the last Inca cities, at Espiritu Pampa, Vilcabamba and Choquequirao.

Treks can even link these isolated, barely explored ruins with the most famous site of all: Machu Picchu, an epic ten day adventure across the mountains that follows the final footsteps of the Inca.

Importantly, aware of the challenging nature of these routes, which range between extremes in altitude and temperature, Peru For Less offers some of the highest quality trekking services available – with the best possible guides, equipment, food and chefs. Touches like warm showers, pre-warmed sleeping bags and three full meals per day plus snacks are aimed to ensure comfort at every step during a Vilcabamba treks.

Our introduction to the jaw-dropping scenery of Peru’s Sacred Valley began long before we started our expedition along the Lares trek. Just getting to base camp entailed a drive up through winding mountain roads, passing a string of Inca ruins and rustic villages where we stopped for bread and other provisions in preparation for our four day hike deep into the wilderness of the Peruvian Andes.

Passing a herd of llama on the first day of the Lares Trek, Peru. Photograph: Matthew Barker 2009

We’d only been hiking a few minutes before a steady drizzle started to fall, forcing us to stop and unpack our waterproofs from the mules. “Rain down here means snow up there,” said Luis, our guide, who pointed up the distant valley with a wry grin.

From the tiny settlement of Huaran we immediately began the steep, one thousand meter climb that would continue all day until we arrived at our first camp. Following a trail that hugged the edges of a fast-flowing river we entered a long, steep corridor of cloud forest leading up to the glacial peaks of Cancha Casa and Chicon that dominated the valley head.

Insisting that we keep a slow, steady pace, Luis began to share some of his vast knowledge of the area, pointing out the darting hummingbirds, explaining the symbiotic partnership between the bromeliads and their tree hosts and revealing the medicinal properties of the various plant life that lined our trail.

As we ascended the steep trail we could see the environment altering around us; flowering plants became less frequent, the trees became ever smaller until they resembled dwarfed stumps and the climate began to change, the wind picked up and a sharp chill entered the air.

But before we reached the tree-line itself it was time to break for some lunch. Meals during a Peru trekking tour are a logistical miracle, with a caravan of porters and mules racing ahead to set up kitchen and have a hot meal ready and waiting for the group’s arrival.

We replenished ourselves on a high energy lunch of steaming soup, sandwiches, fruit and cake before loading up again to continue the ascent until eventually emerging from the tree-line and out onto the rocky no-mans land between cloud forest and glacier, under the shadow of the snow-capped mountains ahead.

We traversed this landscape for four steady hours until the trail led us into the miniscule village of Cancha Cancha, a settlement typical to this area of high Peruvian altiplano where llama and alpaca herding is the main occupation and braving the biting cold is a way of life.

The local children ran out to meet us as we entered the village, while the weary herds of animals showed more caution. Despite still being early, around 5pm, the sun had already disappeared behind the mountains and the evening cold had set in. It was here that our earlier shopping for all those famous Peruvian souvenirs; wooly hats, gloves and ponchos, proved its worth.

A llama watches the sunet on day one of the Lares Trek, Peru. Photograph: Matthew Barker 2009

Before dinner was served, Luis pointed yet further up to the highest, snow-covered point of the mountain pass. “That’s where we’re heading tomorrow,” he declared. “As far and as high as you can see, in that direction!”

After an enormous meal of spicy soup, chicken, vegetables and mashed potato, our group sat in the dining tent, huddled for warmth with a cup of rum in hand, to listen to Luis’s descriptions of the folklore associated with the surrounding mountain ranges and later, explanations of the star constellations shining vividly overhead.

But the night was too cold for star gazing and by 9pm we were all in our tents, inside the sleeping bags and cozily wrapped up from the harsh elements of the altiplano.

Day 2: 15km, Cancha Cancha (3800m) to Quishuarani (3700m)

We started the following day in luxury, having been woken at 5:30am with coffee and a bowl of hot water brought to our tent by our tireless porters. After filling up on breakfast and loading the mules we began the steady climb towards the first mountain pass of the trek.

As we rose towards the peaks we passed by a handful of youngsters, out keeping watch over herds of llamas and alpacas, before leaving all traces of civilization behind us. Up here there was nothing but Andean geese, a large native mountain bird called the Cara Cara, and oversized, stone-colored rabbits, the Viscacha, to keep us company.

As we hit the snow-line our trail took us past a series of large, natural caves in the mountain side. Luis explained that this spot is from where his spiritual ancestors were said to have originated, emerging from the cave carrying maize seeds, water and coca leaves, signifying the most important aspects of life in this region.

View from the first mountain pass on the Lares Trek, Peru. Photograph: Matthew Barker 2009

Finally reaching the highest point of the Pachacutec pass at 4700m, we were rewarded with stunning views across two valley systems, while far below us lay a set of dazzling turquoise lakes. It was up here that Luis stopped to make a ceremonial offering to the mountain gods, the apus, lighting a small fire to burn incense, sweets, coca leaves and other important gifts which would help ensure our smooth passage through the mountains.

After skirting around the mountain peak we began the steady thousand meter descent back below the snow-line and towards our second camp, stopping again for a large lunch before arriving after a full 8 hours hiking in the small settlement of Quishuarani.

Quishuarani was a slightly larger settlement than the previous night’s camp and we were treated to such luxuries as cold beer and chocolate from the village store. As on the previous night, the local youngsters were fascinated with their strange-looking visitors and we spent a couple of hours handing out gifts of coloring books and pencils to the younger kids, while learning a few musical tricks from the older ones, expert players of an Andean ten-stringed instrument called the charango.

Our second camp was also blessed with a small shelter, constructed by the local reserve authority to encourage more visitors to the area, which offered us a warmer environment to eat dinner and share a few mugs of rum with our vivacious guide and a few local villagers.

“Right! I’m going to teach you one of our Andean games!” Luis roared across the table, signaling the start of a long, happy night of dice games and rum drinking that lasted into the small hours.

Day 3: 20km, Quishuarani (3700m) to Lares Hot Springs (3100m)

After our late night we emerged the following morning with startlingly clear heads – perhaps a benefit of the fresh mountain air. “Everyone needs to fill up with a good breakfast,” Luis instructed, “and take plenty of water too. We’ve got a big day ahead of us.”

It was good advice: from Quishuarani we made the most demanding hike of the trip, tackling an incredibly steep incline that took us up to Hullquicasa which, at 4400m above sea level, was the second big mountain pass of our trek.

We were back above the snowline here, although the sun and the sheer physical exertion had everyone sweating buckets. In fact, we were concentrating so hard on getting up the mountainside, we almost missed the astonishing landscape we’d just walked into.

“Now look behind you,” Luis coolly suggested as we clambered, spluttering and wheezing, to the highest point of the pass. The view was almost unbelievable, as though we’d walked into a painting: the mountain fell away from us into a long, wide and grassy valley, dotted with brilliant blue lakes that reflected the skies like shimmering mirrors. Semi-wild horses, ancient stone buildings and small herds of llamas dotted the foreground, while in the distance was a never ending range of jagged mountains and snow-topped peaks.

View from the second mountain pass of the Lares Trek, Peru. Photograph: Matthew Barker 2009

This was a perfect spot to catch our breath and replenish ourselves on some high-energy snacks. But our smug self-congratulations for having made it up such an impossible climb were shattered by the arrival of an elderly lady, a local to the area, who was virtually running up the trail, a baby wrapped up on her back and a toddler pattering along beside her.

“Napaykullayki!” she called over, the regional Quechua greeting, shooting us a toothy grin as she raced past and down the other side, quickly becoming a small, colorful dot in the landscape.

Shamed into action, we clambered back onto our feet and began the descent down into the next valley. The trail passed dozens of small, perfectly calm lagoons and a swift river that eventually turned into a sequence of increasingly impressive waterfalls. Along the sides of the valleys were wide screes of boulders and rocks that had fallen from the mountain sides and now provided an ideal home for bounding families of the Viscacha rabbits who were entirely oblivious to us as we walked by.

Stopping for a short break next to one of these lagoons, the peace was disturbed by a suddenly animated Luis, breaking his cool for a rare, excited moment to point out the enormous condor circling above our heads.

The condor, the largest flying bird in the Americas, is a creature of immense spiritual and symbolic importance to the indigenous people of the Andes, as Luis’ reaction made clear. “That is a sign of real luck, my friends!” He beamed at us. “The condor isn’t so common in this range, but the mountains have certainly blessed us today!”

After stopping for lunch at the river-side village of Cuncani, we continued along the downward trail, following the river towards the Lares valley itself. During the wet season, this onward journey is usually split across two days, but thanks to the dry conditions we were able to continue walking for much longer.

After Cuncani the trail returned us to the tree-line and re-entered the more humid and milder climate and ecosystem of the Andean tropical forest. The path snaked through farmland and rustic agricultural settlements before dropping again, into the more settled and tamed environment of the Lares valley.

Entering the Lares Valley, Peru. Photograph: Matthew Barker 2009

Before long, the river had become a gushing torrent, fuelled by the glacial waters running through the valley which itself had become increasingly lush, the trees grew taller, the undergrowth thicker, and the sounds of birdsong returned to the breeze.

Eventually, rounding a corner along the valley’s edge we were presented with the most welcome sight in days: our camp, already set up by our outstanding team of porters, situated directly next to the series of therapeutic hot springs that make the village of Lares famous.

This was luxury in the true sense of the word and as we stripped out of our mud-clad trekking gear and into the hot showers and pools to rest our weary muscles, it was hard to suppress our grins of absolute contentment.

Day 4: 8km, Lares Hot Springs (3100m) to Inca Ruins

Having completed an extra stretch of hiking the following day, our final day on the trek was a much more relaxed affair, starting with another dip in the springs before making the gentle walk away from Lares along farmland towards some nearby Inca ruins.

The easy trail was a good chance to rest our legs after the demands of the previous few days, as well as catch a glimpse of rural life in the Andean pueblos that we were passing. Occasionally we came across snapshots of times gone by, a paved trail created during the days of the Inca, or a cliff-side cemetery where the bodies of nobles were buried, along with rich offerings to the same mountain gods to which Luis had prayed.

The trail eventually led us to a small village which marked the end of our trek. Here we reacquainted ourselves with the modern world (crossing a road was a novelty, the sound of a car was startling,) unloaded the mules and gave our deep and sincere thanks, along with a healthy tip, to the porters who had worked so hard to make our experience such a memorable one.

Luis stayed with us for the road journey back to Ollantaytambo, a town which had seemed so tiny five days ago, but which felt like a buzzing metropolis when we returned. Here, all that was left was to shake Luis’ hand, thank him for being such an outstanding guide, and catch the train for our much anticipated Machu Picchu tours, the final piece and pinnacle of our Sacred Valley adventure.

How Best To Enjoy Your Peru Trekking Experience:

While planning for Peru vacations, consider that operators for Peru tours and treks abound, but the quality and levels of service can be highly inconsistent. For the best standards in safety and comfort, do your research before you leave and check the online reviews for international providers of Peru vacation packages.

The Inca Trail is by far the most popular route, but the Lares trek is just one of many less-busy alternatives, including the long and spectacular Salcantay trek, or the much shorter Chacan trek.

When packing for your Peru trek, make sure to bring the following essentials:

- Waterproofs, both for yourself and for your daypack,

- Educational or healthy gifts for the kids you’re bound to meet on the way,

- Suitable water bottles or canteens for the drinking water that is usually provided,

- A head torch to keep things well lit up and your hands free,

- Plenty of good quality, warm layers that you can add and remove as the temperatures swing from very warm to freezing cold,

- A good quality, all-seasons sleeping bag and a sleeping bag liner, both of which can be hired in Cusco.

Colca Canyon, Arequipa, Peru. Photograph: Matthew Barker 2009

Most Peru trekking experiences are focused around Cuzco, Machu Picchu and the Inca Trail but the country has a lot more to offer, and one of the finest and most rewarding alternatives is a hike in the Colca Canyon region near Arequipa.

Colca Canyon is famous for being one of the world’s deepest canyons, more than twice as deep as the Grand Canyon. The region is also incredibly high and at around 4300 meters above sea level, visitors will need several days acclimatization in nearby Arequipa before attempting anything more energetic than a short walk.

Visiting the canyon region is easy, trips are offered by most providers of Peru tours or else several buses run from Arequipa’s main bus station to the town of Chivay, at the canyon’s head, on a daily basis. Tickets sell out quickly, so either book for travel on the following day or get there early, before 7am.

The three hour journey from Arequipa to Chivay (15 soles) is spectacular in its own right, crossing high mountain passes and the barren, ethereal world of the high alti plano. Up here the water is frozen into thick ice and very little vegetation grows on the mountain-sides, but you’ll still see the odd bird and herds of llamas apparently thriving in this ultra harsh environment.

This entire region is set within a vast natural park, and entrance will cost 30 soles for a universal tourism ticket (boleto turistico) which will cover you for access to the entire 100km Canyon.

Once in Chivay you can set up base here in one of the numerous hotels and hostels. Compared to the generally high standards of Peru hotels, services here are Spartan at best but there are a few good hotels offering hot water all day, cable TV and other luxuries. There are also a healthy scattering of restaurants serving up a range of food, from quick snacks to full hearty meals of local specialties, which will set you up well for a day or two of hard hiking.

Colca Canyon, Arequipa, Peru

If arriving late in the day, save your energy for the following morning or treat yourself by taking the short walk uphill to the town’s famous hot springs (entrance 10 soles) where you can bathe in one of seven pools ranging from unbearably hot to virtually freezing cold.

Enjoy dinner in Chivay at one of the town’s numerous Peñas, restaurants offering lively – and often interactive – music and dance performances. El Nido, behind the town’s market, is a local favorite which gets very busy after 8pm.

The hiking options from Chivay are varied and can suit any level, provided you’re already well acclimatized to the altitude. For a short walk from the town itself, head out on the road to the hot springs, cutting left as you leave the town. This track will eventually lead you to the attractive village of Corporaque, complete with ruins and a pleasant river-side spot to stop and catch your breath.

From here, follow the path to the neighboring village of Yanque, around 5 miles from Chivay. You can either walk back from here or catch a cab back to town.

Stretching from Chivay, the Canyon is dotted with small towns and villages, all of which are served by bus services leaving from Chivay’s bus terminal. For some stunning and fairly challenging hikes, catch a bus to Cabanaconde a small town which provides the basics you’ll need for a few days – lodgings, food and basic services.

You can either hire a local guide, or purchase a map of the area and walk solo. A well trodden path heads to an oasis known as San Galle at the foot of the canyon, where natural swimming pools offer a chance to cool off and catch your breath following the steep descent. From here you follow the same path uphill back to town, a challenging climb which will probably take the rest of the day – bring plenty of water and some high-energy snacks.

The more adventurous visitors can attempt longer treks spanning several days, all of which hug the canyon and riverside which has numerous campsites to pitch your own tent. Outside of the villages and towns themselves, there are no services whatsoever so be sure to bring everything that you’ll need and don’t attempt overnight treks alone unless you have the necessary skills and prior experience.

Visitors needing equipment rental, guides, maps and any other information are best served in nearby Arequipa, before heading into the Canyon itself but informal advice and information is available from hotel owners and fellow hikers within the Canyon.