We caught a short taxi ride from the bus terminal and were deposited at the door of our lodging, located very close to Santa Cruz, one of the main streets that runs down the length of La Paz. At this early hour, the city was already revving up to the frenzied pace that characterizes daily life here. After checking in, breakfasting, and having a nap, we finally headed out to our destination.

A population of over 2 million inhabitants resides in La Paz, a city built up the sides of hills ranging in elevation from 9,800 feet to 13,400 feet (3,000 meters to 4,100 meters). Photo Credit: Herlim Li.

The Witches’ Market is actually one street in the middle of a larger market and is located on Jimenez and Linares streets between Sagarnaga and Santa Cruz. In this collection of shops and booths, women dressed in layered skirts and wearing black bowler hats trade in souvenirs and occult knowledge. Yatiris is the name for the medicine healers and fortunetellers, recognizable by their ponchos and coca pouches, that also available on these streets, offering their skills to paceños and travelers alike.

One of the most fascinating things you will see in this fascinating city is the Mercado de la Brujas – or the Witches’ Market.

On sale at the Witches’ Market, amid quantities of cheap trinkets, alpaca sweaters, and happy pants, we saw dried frogs and rats, owl feathers, seeds, herbs, and insect parts, as well as medicinal plants, love potions, ceramic figures, and amulets. There are also statuettes and when you talk to the vendors, you learn that different statues serve different functions. For example, there are statues to protect children, to safeguard travelers, to attract love, or to bring prosperity to a business. Many of the items on sale are the raw materials used in indigenous Aymara rituals as part of practices with ancient roots that are still very much part of Bolivian culture.

For many who seek out the Witches’ Market, the main draw is the desiccated llama fetuses that are visible everywhere along the street, piled into baskets, crammed into boxes, or hanging on display. There are two main uses for the llama fetus, or sullu in the Aymara language. Bolivians purchase dried fetuses to bury under the foundations of new houses or other buildings in order to bring protection to the construction. In its second use, the llama fetus is prepared by brujas (witches) with incense, sugar and sweets, and wool dyed in multiple colors. This preparation is known as a mesa andina (Andean table), and when burnt, it brings good luck, whether to a household, business, or other venture. In both uses, the llama fetus serves as an offering to give thanks to Pachamama, or Mother Earth.

Tiny llamas, some with fur and some without, will provide a shock for some and a thrill for others.

You may be wondering where these llama fetuses come from. Well, it is not uncommon for llamas to miscarry during the rainy season. The aborted fetuses are collected and then sold in markets like this one.

An interesting characteristic of the Witches’ Market is the predominance of women as business owners. This market has existed for generations and many of the shops that line Calle Linares, as well as the knowledge that is exchanged within them, have been passed on through generations of women. Additionally, in Bolivia, where home and business are often merged, the witches and folk healers that do their business along Calle Linares also live on this street.

Two things struck me most about the Witches’ Market. First, was the initial sense of foreignness and difference upon seeing the raw materials of witchcraft so openly displayed. Second, was that the intended effect of that witchcraft was deeply entwined with the universal and enduring preoccupations of humanity – among them, money, luck, and love. For me, travel is about finding these resonances.

Read about why Bolivia and Peru are perfect for a dual-country holiday and contact one of our expert travel advisors to start planning your fully customized trip to Bolivia and other destinations.  

In 2012, Peruvian park agencies will focus on developing Manu National Park as a destination for ecotourism.

What is ecotourism?

Ecotourism is a form of tourism that places emphasis on responsible and sustainable travel to natural areas. Among its key objectives, the ecotourism ethos seeks to minimize human impact, maximize conservation, and when applicable to increase the direct and indirect socio-economic benefits to the human populations that inhabit the affected environments. This philosophy is particularly important in Manu National Park, especially as it continues to grow and develop as a tourist destination.

Manu National Park

Located where the Andes and the Amazon River meet in southwestern Peru, Manu National Park comprises 1.5 million hectares and is the country’s largest protected area. In 1977, Manu was declared a Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO, and in 1987, a World Heritage Site. One unique trait of Manu is the range of elevations or altitudes within the reserve. From the river lowlands located at 500 feet (150 meters) above sea level, the mountainous rainforest areas and puna (grasslands) rise up to 13,800 feet (4,200 meters) in some places. This characteristic creates distinct ecological zones and microclimates, resulting in the astounding natural bounty of flora and fauna in Manu.

This tiny critter is one of 140 species of amphibians that populate Manu National Reserve.

Efforts to catalogue Manu’s diversity of species have turned up mind-blowing numbers: over 15,000 species of plants have been identified, including 250 varieties of trees. The number of bird species is around 1,000, more than the total number in the U.S. and Canada combined.  Among the 200 species of mammals are 14 types of monkeys and rare species like the giant otter and the giant armadillo. Manu is thus the perfect location from which to appreciate Peru’s animal diversity.

Crikey, a caiman! With so many species of plant and animal life in Manu, you never know what you’re likely to see if you keep your eyes open.

These exceptional attributes have made Manu an alluring site for researchers and nature travelers alike. As international attention continues to increase in the coming years, organized efforts to protect and responsibly develop Manu are of obvious importance, and the recent meeting of officials and tour operators was an important first step.

Currently, primary access to Manu is through Cusco, whether by air or ground, making it a fantastically exotic destination to add to your Machu Picchu travel packages. Tours of Manu feature a visit to the famous Cloud Forest, and can be customized to include trips to the clay lick where parrots and macaws congregate as well as jungle hikes. See our Amazon tour page, read our blog on Amazon destinations, or speak with one of our expert travel advisors for more details.

The Chavin de Huantar Site

Peru’s first known cultures date back to over 20,000 years ago, and have left strong marks on the country. One of the most important known groups is the Chavin civilization, one of the earliest in Peru, and also the first building culture. Believed to have developed in the northern Andes between 1,500 B.C. and 200 B.C., the Chavins were probably one of the most influential civilizations of their time. Very little remains from this great culture, but there are several archeological sites that have stood the test of time. The most impressive of these is Chavin de Huantar, which is hidden amidst the Cordillera Blanca in northern Peru.

After the decline of the Chavin culture, several regional cultures emerged. The most famous are the Paracas and Nazca civilizations, whose legacy includes the mysterious Nazca Lines, among the highlights of Peru. Both of these civilizations are remembered for their great artistic and technological skills.

Farther north, the Moche people flourished over a relatively long period between 100 B.C and 850 A.D. Although they only gained control of a small portion of Peru, the Moche people’s mastery of architectural and artistic techniques has made them one of the most influential cultures in the history of Peru. It is still possible to observe their tremendous cultural contribution outside the modern day city of Trujillo. The adobe brick temple Huaca del Sol maintains remarkably detailed carvings and brilliant colors.

Moche Art

Coeval with the Moche civilization, the Wari, also spelled Huari, were a militaristic and particularly religious society established in the 7^th century. The expansionist will of the Wari allowed them to conquer most of Peru, which they then subjected to a strong and oppressive rule. The Wari Empire flourished until the 9^th century, when it eventually started fragmenting into several sub-groups and ended up being conquered by the Incas.

Several Wari archeological sites can be visited in Peru. Among these, the most important are Cerro Baul, north of Moquega in the far South of the country; Toro Muerto, which comprises petroglyphs and is located about three hours from Arequipa; the Pachacamac site near Lima; Pikillacta in Cusco; and Wilcahuain close to Huaraz. The most impressive remnant of the civilization, however, is the capital city, called Wari, located in the highlands near Ayacucho.

The influence of the Wari culture on the history and development of Peru is particularly strong, as they were the first to build roads connecting their outposts. This system was later copied, used, and extended by the Incas. Their massive buildings were made to resists earthquakes by the use of polygonal rock blocks, an architectural element the Incas also later adopted.

Although all the heritage of these cultures may appear  to pale in comparison to the all-mighty Incas, who ruled the country with a forceful hand and left many spectacular ruin sites, they are all part of Peru’s complex history, and their influence can still be observed in current Peruvian traditions.

To learn more about Peru’s fascinating early civilizations and to explore Peru travel options, contact one of our expert travel advisors.

Moray's Inca terraces sculpted in the earth

Testament to the overpowering Inca Empire, which conquered the country and imposed its rule even beyond the boundaries of Peru, stand spectacular archeological sites such as world wonder Machu Picchu. While borrowing techniques from earlier conquered civilizations, the Incas also brought their own ingenuity to Peruvian architecture, creating stunning stonework to replace the precarious and simple adobe construction of earlier periods.

If not for the greed of the Spanish conquerors who insisted on dismantling the work of the Incas to replace it with their own, many buildings would still be standing. The most spectacular work of the Incas can still be seen in Cusco, where massive carved walls fill the streets, and in the Sacred Valley, which holds true treasures in most of its villages. Moray’s sculptured terraces and Ollantaytambo’s canchas (city blocks) are truly sights to behold.

Although the Spanish conquest destroyed some priceless and timeless work from earlier civilizations, its own architectural achievements are worth praising, with absolutely stunning colonial buildings scattered throughout the country. The old center of Lima is particularly impressive, with well-preserved churches from the early colonial times, such as San Pedro, La Merced, and San Augustin, accompanied by striking casas coloniales (opulent colonial mansions) still standing in the historic quarter.

European Renaissance and Baroque movements also reached Peru, with beautiful testaments to these influences still adorning many cities. The Cathedral and Santa Clara church of Cusco are striking remnants of the Renaissance period, while Arequipa holds some of the most beautiful treasures from the Baroque period, such as the churches of Santa Rosa and San Augustin. Arequipa is also widely recognized as Peru’s most attractive colonial city, with its historic center almost entirely built with the stunning local sillar, a white volcanic stone that has given the city its nickname as the “White City.”

The famous Casa de Fierro by Gustave Eiffel in Iquitos

Surprisingly, one of the most influential architects in Peru was actually a famous Frenchman, Gustave Eiffel, known worldwide for his majestic iron tower dominating Paris. His works can be admired throughout Peru, from Tacna and Moquega’s fountains on the main square, to the Casa de Fierro (Iron House), a two-story iron mansion in Iquitos. This last work, originally built for the 1889 Exposition in Paris, was purchased by one of Iquitos’ rubber barons who had it dismantled, shipped and reconstructed in the jungle settlement. Eiffel also designed a number of other bridges and buildings, which can be found in the Peruvian Amazon and Chile’s Atacama region. His most impressive marks on the Peruvian architectural landscape are without a doubt the Bolivar Bridge and San Camilo Market in Arequipa.

A few post-modern artists have also emerged in Peru in the recent years, albeit limited to the Lima region. One of the most significant architects is Bernardo Fort-Brescia, co-founder of the world famous and avant-garde Arquitectonica Company based in Miami, responsible for some of Lima’s most intriguing structures. The most noteworthy is arguably the gigantic Marriott Hotel, a green-glass arch in Miraflores overlooking the Pacific Ocean.

For more information about Peru’s fascinating history and culture, or to explore more Peru travel opportunities, contact one of our travel advisors who can help you customize your vacation.

This is pisco sour.

Pisco sour, Peru’s national drink, is an intoxicating cultural symbol and point of pride for Peruvians. Each year on the first Saturday in February, the country lifts its glass and celebrates Pisco Sour day—a day inevitably filled with free-flowing pisco sours, mixing competitions, live music, and general merriness.

Powerfully delicious pisco sour.

Pisco, the clear grape brandy and main ingredient of its namesake cocktail, dates back to the 1520s. Historians say the drink was first mentioned in the will of a landowner from Ica, a wine-producing town in southern Peru. Experts believe local farmers created pisco when, rather than wasting low-quality wine that could not be exported, they distilled the already fermented grapes to create a highly alcoholic drink. The word pisco most likely comes from a Quechua word for a particular type of bird common in the Ica area. Pisco is also the name of a port city near Ica, where some of the best pisco in the country is still produced.

The history of pisco sour is more recent. The drink was first concocted in Lima in 1920 by American expatriate Victor Morris. Some believe the drink was an attempt by Morris to recreate the familiar taste of a whisky sour with locally-available liquor. Whatever his intentions, Morris created a masterpiece. The basic recipe requires pisco, an egg white, simple syrup or sugar, lime or lemon juice, and Angostura bitters.

Despite all signs pointing to Peruvian origin of both the liquor and the cocktail, there is disagreement over pisco derivation: both Peru and its northern neighbor Chile claim the drink as their own. The quarrel can be traced back to colonial times when the area was one viceroyalty of Spain, with no border distinction. Pisco vineyards may have begun in Ica, but the process was quickly replicated throughout the viceroyalty, including what is now southern Chile. Also, Chile can be legitimately credited for marketing the drink and creating an export market; it exports nearly 50 times more pisco than Peru. These nuances have caused big disputes in South America and Peru has even gone so far as to issue a “Defense of the Peruvian Denomination of Origin ‘Pisco’” which can be found on Peruvian government and embassy websites.

Regardless, pisco from both countries is potent and delicious. Try making your own pisco sour by following the recipe below, but remember: the smooth-tasting pisco ranges from 60-100 proof and packs a punch. So take care, or you might lose yourself in an ocean of pure pisco delight.

Typical Pisco Sour Recipe:

• 2 ounces of pisco
• 1 egg white (or one teaspoon pasteurized egg whites)
• ½ ounce regular syrup (or one tablespoon sugar)
• ¾-1 ounce lime juice
• Angostura bitters

For a sweeter drink, add more sugar. For a drier drink, add more lime. Mix liquid ingredients well with ice. Top with bitters and enjoy!

To taste a truly Peruvian pisco sour, contact one of our travel advisors to discuss Peru travel opportunities.

The beautiful Cerro Baul outside of Moquegua

Located in the driest part of Peru, merging with Chile’s Atacama Desert, the Moquegua region houses extensive mineral reserves, and is home to one of Peru’s largest copper mines, Cuajone. The nearby Rio Moquegua surprisingly delivers enough water for farming in the surrounding rural area, with vast productions and exports of olives, pisco, avocados and apricots.

With its narrow cobbled streets, attractive plaza, and adobe houses with roofs made of thatch and clay, the colonial city of Moquegua is a real pleasure to explore. There is not much to do but stroll down the streets and soak up the tranquil atmosphere of this quaint settlement.

Admire the picturesque Plaza de Armas, or main square, beautifully shaded by tall ficus trees, and adorned with a surprising metal fountain designed in 1877 by world famous architect Gustave Eiffel. Take a peek into the beautiful Catedral de Santo Domingo restored in 1868 after a devastating earthquake and featuring on one of its towers the first clock to arrive the village, from London, in 1798. Passing through the doorway of the church, you can enter the Museo Contisuyo, where the permanent exhibition of hundreds of artifacts lays out over 12,000 years of history in the region.

Previously isolated from the rest of Peru, Moquegua is now well connected with several bus companies serving the area. Buses from Lima (16/20 hours), Arequipa (4 hours), or Puno (8 hours) all come to this small yet lovely region, where travelers will get a sense of the true Peruvian life style. Just off of the Panamerican highway, Moquegua is easily accessible, yet far enough away to remain off the tourist radar, making for a unique trip experience.

Moquegua is also a fantastic departure point for amazing hikes in the region. Adventurous visitors take the 15 minute ride to Cerro Baul up the Tunilaca Valleyma. The climb up Cerro Baul is a bit strenuous, but the view from the top on a clear day is breathtaking and worth the effort. Cerro Baul is also covered by interesting Wari ruins. If you do not fear strenuous walks, the Mollesacha waterfall Catarata de Mollesacha and the gorges in reddish purple stone behind Cerro Los Angeles in the Torata valley are definitely worth a visit if you have a day to spare.

The delicious Cuy Chactado

Moquegua is known for cuy chactado, breaded guinea pig fried under a heavy flat rock, one of Peru’s most famous dishes. Don’t be put off by the Moquegua style cuy, which comes whole with claws and teeth, as you are likely to be surprised by its excellent taste, similar to chicken. There are several cuy restaurants in town which generally feature pleasant outdoor areas overlooking the green farmland. People from Moquegua insist that the finest pisco comes from Moquegua. Make sure to try another of Moquegua’s specialties, damascos, apricots marinated in pisco.

For more information about what to do in Moquegua and its surroundings and to learn about more Peru travel opportunities, contact one of our Peru travel advisors at Peru For Less.

The relaxing Eco Spa in Colca Canyon

Travel to Colca Canyon to experience the unique beauty of this gigantic natural wonder, twice as deep as the Grand Canyon, and soak up spectacular views of the valley while enjoying some of the most luxurious treatments available in Peru. Located within the Colca Valley, the Eco-Spa, part of the excellent Colca Lodge, is probably on the most well-appointed spas in the country, with unique natural hot springs. This eco-friendly spa offers many amenities and is equipped with the most modern facilities. Here you will find pools, saunas, Jacuzzis, as well as highly qualified therapists dedicated to your utmost pleasure and relaxation.

Nazca, with its impressive geoglyphs carved in the stone known as the Nazca Lines, is a popular destination among travelers curious to learn all about the mysteries of Peru’s fascinating history. Although Nazca is a lovely and quiet town, there isn’t much to see there, so take the time to relax after your flight over the lines, and treat yourselves to a massage or treatment at the Cantayo Spa Resort. Located in a hotel, this elegant spa offers great services such as therapeutic hydro-massages, plantar massages, yoga and meditation areas. You can also practice shooting the traditional Japanese arc (Kuydo) or explore the trails in the beautiful park surrounded by over 500 orange and lemon trees.

No trip to Peru is complete without an immersion in the unique history of the country and its Inca people. Must-dos are of course Machu Picchu and the nearby city of Cusco, with its impressive surrounding valley, filled with Inca ruins and traditional villages, known as the Sacred Valley. Take a day or two to explore this area and learn about the history of the Incas across the Valley. Altitude might get to your head so this is the perfect place to relax and treat yourself to a soothing spa experience in between adventures. Casa Andina’s Sacred Spa, located within the Casa Andina Private Collection Hotel, welcomes you in a traditional atmosphere, with colorful local textiles, native plants and Andean music. This oasis of serenity with its stone floors, bamboo walls and waterfalls provides a luxurious and soothing ambience in which you can relax in the hands of highly trained personal. Andean therapies characterize this excellent spa, such as Anallaw (Andean energy massage using hot semi precious stones) or Maracuyaway Qaqoy (using honey and passion fruit).

The luxurious Mayu Wilka Spa in the Sacred Valley

Another favorite among the luxury spas of Peru is the Mayu Wilka Spa located in the Rio Sagrado Hotel in Cusco’s Sacred Valley. Lying on a magnificent river front stone monument, secluded amongst indigenous trees and a beautiful natural setting of wild flowers, this amazing spa awaits you with traditional treatments ranging from local native plants therapies to massages providing you with the most soothing and relaxing experience. The excellent amenities of this spa include a spacious indoor/outdoor Jacuzzi, steam room, sauna and Spanish shower. Let the professional therapists take care of you and you are sure to leave feeling stimulated, rejuvenated and ready for new adventures.

And of course, let’s not forget the extraordinary and luxurious Aranwa Hotel’s Wellness Center in the Sacred Valley. This Spa is a sanctuary of style, serenity and comfort, surrounded by lush gardens and artificial lagoons, where everything tranquility and harmony reign supreme. Featuring 7 treatment rooms, including a duet suite for an intimate experience, an exclusive area for native treatments, and an opulent hydrotherapy area, with different temperature pools, steam room, sauna, massaging footbath and private showers, this Spa takes you on a relaxing journey from which you will never want to come back!

For more information about your Peru vacation and opportunities to treat yourself to a luxury spa experience, ask one of our Peru For Less Travel Advisors.

The best solution would be to choose the district that is most attractive to you before picking a hotel in the area to use as a base for your future Lima explorations. Check out Peru For Less’ favorite Lima hotels in various neighborhoods to help you shape your experience of this bustling capital.

A luxurious suite at the excellent-value Allpa Hotel in Miraflores.

The financial center of San Isidro is home to more than 20 bank headquarters and 30 embassies. This upscale district is also well-known for housing Lima’s most exclusive elite and has some of the most grandiose homes and villas in Lima. Stroll the impeccably kept streets of this attractive neighborhood, full of excellent boutique shopping and upscale restaurants, to get a feel for the lifestyle of the wealthiest limeños.

Stay at the excellent 5-star Country Club Lima Hotel, visited by numerous presidents, ambassadors, artists and other great personalities over the years to enjoy some luxurious services in a truly spectacular setting. For a more low-key experience, choose the lovely family-run Casa Bella Boutique Hotel, which offers a friendly and homey atmosphere, only minutes away from Lima’s exciting attractions.

The chic and trendy district of Miraflores is, without a doubt, the most attractive home base for travelers in Lima. With myriad shops, restaurants, cafés and bars, Miraflores is never short on entertainment. Parque Kennedy, located in the center of Miraflores, regularly hosts craft markets, live music, and art exhibitions, while luxury shopping can be found at the modern Larcomar shopping mall, built into the cliffs overlooking the Pacific Ocean. Travelers will enjoy strolling down on the Costa Verde along the coast of Miraflores, a favorite among surfers and paragliders.

The elegant lobby at the centrally located Casa Andina Private Collection Hotel.

Casa Andina Private Collection Miraflores, located 2 blocks from Parque Kennedy, is an excellent-value and luxurious 5-star hotel. Boasting beautiful panoramic views of this dynamic district, the hotel also offers excellent services in an elegant and contemporary setting. The brand new 3-star Allpa Hotel is another excellent choice for travelers who want an impeccable hotel with spacious, modern, and brand new rooms. Located in the heart of Miraflores, this chic and modern hotel is perfect for those looking for a great value hotel without sacrificing comfort.

For travelers of all ages who wish to be close to Lima’s exciting nightlife, the upcoming district of Barranco is perhaps the best place to spend a Lima vacation. This artistic and bohemian district is known for its lively art scene, wide range of inexpensive and excellent restaurants, bars and nightclubs. Don’t forget to check out some of Barranco’s many peñas which feature typical Peruvian dances and live music.

The 4-star Second Home Peru Hotel is ideally located in the thick of the action, within walking distance of all of Barranco’s main attraction. This cozy and intimate boutique hotel features only five rooms and was once home to the Peruvian Sculptor Victor Delfin, mostly known for his stunning Parque del Amor (Love Park) located in Miraflores. The artsy 3B Barranco’s Bed & Breakfast with its contemporary design and stylish retro décor is also worth a visit. High style and high tech amenities characterize this chic hotel which will delight even the most discriminating guests.

However you wish to discover the bustling capital, these recommended Lima hotels Peru make an excellent base for discovering the fascinating neighborhoods of Peru’s largest city.

For more Peru travel opportunities and information on how to pick your hotel in Lima, contact one of our travel advisors.