It was my first trip to the town of Cusco and then Machu Picchu. I was embarking on the most well known trip in Peru and probably South America: to Cusco and Machu Picchu.

Cusco, Tambomachay, Saqsaywaman, and Qorikancha

As I left my hotel I shared the street with a flock of llamas that were being herded through the city by a local woman in traditional dress.

The city of Cusco, particularly the center has been architecturally unchanged for centuries. I immediately walked to the central Plaza de Armas. The Plaza is surrounded by grand cathedrals and churches.

The streets of Cusco

I made my way to the bus station for buses to Pisac. From here you can take buses to the sites to the North of Cuzco. For 1.50 soles I hopped aboard a bus going to the Inca sites around Tambomachay.

Travelling by combi-bus in Lima is interesting enough, but in Cusco, it is like another world. After leaving the bus station, at the first stop it filled with locals making their way to Pisac after a day working in Cusco.

The bus was suddenly packed with Quechua speaking ladies in bright colorful clothes along with their days shopping attached to their backs in the traditional Cuscenian way.

Luckily the ladies also did speak Spanish, and they kindly directed me when to leave the bus to see the ruins at Tambomachay.

It is thought Tambomachay was a place for the Incan elite to escape the city and relax with some royal spa treatment. It was here that I found a guide for the day.

Initially adamant that I would do it alone with my guide book, a young Spanish speaking guide, Luis, offered to give me a personal tour around all the sites for 20 soles, a real bargain considering I didn’t know where I was going.

From Tambomachay we crossed the road to the site of Pukapukara. It was thought that this site was used as a fortress or guard post. It was here I learned how the Inca’s communicated over long distances.

The Incas used a quipu rope-knot system for correspondence, but forts were within direct line of sight so they could also use a code by reflecting light off shiny objects, sometimes gold or silver.

My guide and I then took a combi-bus down to the site of Q’enqo (pronounced as Kenco). Luis told me that ritual sacrifices and the preparation of bodies for burial may have taken place here. At the top of the site is a huge rock that was probably used for ceremonies.

The final ruin of the day was the site of Saqsaywaman. This is the site of the famous Inti Raymi festival and is one of the grandest sites. The site was razed by the Spanish to build the Cathedral and homes for the conquistadors.

Rocks of Saqsaywaman

Saqsaywaman was the site of one of the fiercest battles between the Incas and the Spanish.

My guide took me around the site including a trip through the pitch black tunnel through to the temple of the Moon. The craftsmanship and the design are impressive. As a bonus too, the site is 2km above Cusco so you have fantastic panoramic views over the whole city.

The following day I woke up early and went to explore the remaining museums and sites in Cuzco. The highlight was a trip to Qorikancha, a temple with walls that were once gilded in gold. The site was change into a convent by the Spanish. Now it is a museum that shows some impressive Inca stonework and fantastic works of art from the Cuzco School of Art.

I went by local bus to Ollantaytambo where I would catch the train to Aguas Calientes. I sat next to an older gentleman that fell asleep on my shoulder as we wound through the mountain roads. Changing bus at Urubamba I then found a smaller combi-bus to take to Ollantaytambo.

Ollantaytambo

On arriving into the Plaza de Armas in Ollantaytambo, you are greeted by a small town that is now a key transit hub for people going to Machu Picchu.

The town is also one of the oldest continually inhabited towns in Peru, with many of the streets still exactly as they have been for centuries. The original water canals from the irrigation system of the Incas still exist – making the town very pleasant.

I walked up to the ruins before I made my way to the train station. They were very impressive, but with a night booked to stay in the town after Machu Picchu, I walked on to give me something to do later on.

Ruins of Ollantaytambo

Due to the mud slides a few months back, the train to Machu Picchu does not actually run from Ollantaytambo, so travelers go by bus from the station to the station at Piscacucho.  This will change in July though when the new tracks open. The bus journey wasn’t particularly pleasant, but there is no alternative to get to Aguas Calientes without a number of buses and a hike that would probably take a day to complete.

Aguas Calientes is a pleasant enough town. It hasn’t got much to offer, and like all towns on the route from Cuzco, they are primarily transit hubs for Machu Picchu. The surrounding mountains and the river through the middle of the town add some gloss.

Obsessed with making sure I got to climb Huanya Picchu (the big peak behind Machu Picchu), I had a quick dinner and early night so I could wake at 3.30am to make the trek up to the entrance gates at Machu Picchu for 5.30am.

After walking under the clear starry night sky for about 25 minutes I arrived at the base of the road hill to Machu Picchu. It was here that my lack on planning came to haunt me, as it is not possible to access the route without already having a Machu Picchu entrance ticket.

Tickets can only be bought at the office in Aguas Calientes or Cuzco. With the office opening at 5am I made the dash back to Aguas. By this time though, the queue for buses to the entrance gates was huge!

After riding the winding hill up to the entrance gates of Machu Picchu, and then queuing again to get in, I thought my hopes of walking that extra peak were over. Luckily though, on entrance to Machu Picchu there was just enough space to allow me to do the trail!

Machu Picchu is a calming break to the tourist hustle and bustle of Aguas Calientes.

There are very few words I can use to describe the initial experience upon entering Machu Picchu. It is just an astonishing place. There is something special about its calmness and remoteness that makes you feel incredibly privileged.

The calm of Machu Picchu

As I walked quickly towards the entrance gate to Huanya Picchu, the sun was breaking over the mountains surrounding the citadel, with the clouds sitting below the eye line. The hairs on the back of my neck stood up as I got goose pimples from the sheer serenity of the situation.

You can understand why the Incas would have constructed this place here, in honor of their gods that had placed them at the centre of their known world.

The walk up to the top of Huanya Picchu was short, but high; so many steps at high altitude took my breath away. At each stop as I turned around to see the citadel behind, I was struck even more by its beauty. At the climax of Huanya Picchu I took solitude on a rock overlooking the ruins of Machu Picchu to just ponder.

The climb and the early start had been immensely worth it.

Machu Picchu from Huana Picchu

The descent down took me back to Machu Picchu. Here I found a quite spot away from the crowds to relax and have a snooze before I went to explore the citadel. The long morning was catching up with me.

Walking around Machu Picchu, you develop a deeper appreciation of the place. To imagine the Inca’s constructing this place in such a previously remote place is baffling and a testament to the abilities of the Inca Empire. The stone masonry, the construction and the design is nothing less than beautiful.

I had the night back in Ollantaytambo, waking to go and explore the impressive fortress at Ollantaytambo. The town was also the last stronghold of the Inca’s, and the imposing ruins that are still very much intact are a testament to this.

Me being an Englishman in Peru, in need of a television to watch the England World Cup match, I embarked on a small trail of my own to find a place. In Ollantaytambo I was not too hopeful. Luckily, a local resident invited me into his home to watch the England vs. USA game with him and his family.

A perfect end to a perfect holiday, showing the best of what Peru has to offer, great people with a great past.

As I left I pondered the sheer diversity and variety of people and places in Peru, especially between the people of Lima and the people in the country.

This is a something special about this part of the world, and I left with a huge appreciation of the difficulties of Andean culture.

The town usually attracts day trippers from Cusco. But it is increasingly attracting overnight guests who stay here after their Sacred Valley tour en route to Machu Picchu, or after walking the Inca Trail.

You can also stop their before catching the train to Machu Picchu with a number of quality and budget hotels for you to stay in.

What to see

Second only to Machu Picchu in splendor, Ollantaytambo was the temporary capital for the Manco Inca after the fall of Cusco during the Spanish conquest. During this period of turmoil, the settlement, which up until that point was primarily religious, was turned into a defensive fortress. This grand site held out against the Spanish until the Inca retreated to a more fortified position in the forests.

A view from the Massive Sacred Pink Stones at the top of the fortress will give you the vantage point to see the impressive Inca town below. The town is laid out on as a grid shaped in a trapezoid (the trapezoid was a sacred design element for the Inca), and it relatively unchanged since Inca times.

The town and farm terraces are irrigated by canals. Their advanced water system allowed them to farm on otherwise unarable land.  They also diverted the Urubamba River to serve their defense needs.

They also constructed large storehouses to keep produce for the winter months. The houses were build in the highest parts of the town, where it is coldest, and constructed so the cool wind can flow through, preserving the produce in a cool dry place.

Ruins of Ollantaytambo in the Sacred Valley

Where to stay – Sacred Valley Hotels

The town has developed a number of comfortable accommodations that make a stay in Ollantaytambo after a long Inca Trail trek the perfect way to relax.

The vintage El Albergue Hotel is the oldest in the Sacred Valley area, and dates back to 1929. Located right on the train tracks, it has an upscale, gourmet restaurant with open kitchen (rated number 1 on Trip Advisor for restaurants).

They also recently finished remolding all the rooms throughout, with each having lots of character and a view over a courtyard with gardens. The best feature is the complimentary eucalyptus sauna.

The Pakaritampu Hotel is only a five minute walk from the train station and is one of the newest most modern hotels in Ollantaytambo, with expansive lawns and gardens. Listed as a four star hotel, it has striking common areas and grounds but lacks the rustic elegance or vintage character that you would find in El Albergue.

Another hotel you could consider is the Hotel Sauce, only a 10 minute walk from the train station and with the best views of the ruins in the town. Centrally located right off the Plaza de Armas, the property has easy access to some of the best historic sites in town. But, it does not have the serene gardens or charming character you would find at the El Albergue or Pakaritampu hotels.

Where to eat

The El Albergue, at the hotel listed above, is a contemporary version of Andean cuisine. The Mayupata Restaurant, at Calle la Convencion, has really great wood fired pizzas and tasty Italian food.

There are also a number of restaurants around the central Plaza de Armas. I ate a fantastic 3 course menu lunch for only $5 at the Camino de Inca restaurant there. The host was kind enough to let me leave my bags securely in the restaurant while I explored the ruins, which is great when you have a large case!

Top Travel Tip

The view from the top of the ruins at Ollantaytambo at sunset is outstanding: the valley turns golden from the reflection off the hillsides, and bright greens from terraced agriculture that goes for miles.

Our introduction to the jaw-dropping scenery of Peru’s Sacred Valley began long before we started our expedition along the Lares trek. Just getting to base camp entailed a drive up through winding mountain roads, passing a string of Inca ruins and rustic villages where we stopped for bread and other provisions in preparation for our four day hike deep into the wilderness of the Peruvian Andes.

Passing a herd of llama on the first day of the Lares Trek, Peru. Photograph: Matthew Barker 2009

We’d only been hiking a few minutes before a steady drizzle started to fall, forcing us to stop and unpack our waterproofs from the mules. “Rain down here means snow up there,” said Luis, our guide, who pointed up the distant valley with a wry grin.

From the tiny settlement of Huaran we immediately began the steep, one thousand meter climb that would continue all day until we arrived at our first camp. Following a trail that hugged the edges of a fast-flowing river we entered a long, steep corridor of cloud forest leading up to the glacial peaks of Cancha Casa and Chicon that dominated the valley head.

Insisting that we keep a slow, steady pace, Luis began to share some of his vast knowledge of the area, pointing out the darting hummingbirds, explaining the symbiotic partnership between the bromeliads and their tree hosts and revealing the medicinal properties of the various plant life that lined our trail.

As we ascended the steep trail we could see the environment altering around us; flowering plants became less frequent, the trees became ever smaller until they resembled dwarfed stumps and the climate began to change, the wind picked up and a sharp chill entered the air.

But before we reached the tree-line itself it was time to break for some lunch. Meals during a Peru trekking tour are a logistical miracle, with a caravan of porters and mules racing ahead to set up kitchen and have a hot meal ready and waiting for the group’s arrival.

We replenished ourselves on a high energy lunch of steaming soup, sandwiches, fruit and cake before loading up again to continue the ascent until eventually emerging from the tree-line and out onto the rocky no-mans land between cloud forest and glacier, under the shadow of the snow-capped mountains ahead.

We traversed this landscape for four steady hours until the trail led us into the miniscule village of Cancha Cancha, a settlement typical to this area of high Peruvian altiplano where llama and alpaca herding is the main occupation and braving the biting cold is a way of life.

The local children ran out to meet us as we entered the village, while the weary herds of animals showed more caution. Despite still being early, around 5pm, the sun had already disappeared behind the mountains and the evening cold had set in. It was here that our earlier shopping for all those famous Peruvian souvenirs; wooly hats, gloves and ponchos, proved its worth.

A llama watches the sunet on day one of the Lares Trek, Peru. Photograph: Matthew Barker 2009

Before dinner was served, Luis pointed yet further up to the highest, snow-covered point of the mountain pass. “That’s where we’re heading tomorrow,” he declared. “As far and as high as you can see, in that direction!”

After an enormous meal of spicy soup, chicken, vegetables and mashed potato, our group sat in the dining tent, huddled for warmth with a cup of rum in hand, to listen to Luis’s descriptions of the folklore associated with the surrounding mountain ranges and later, explanations of the star constellations shining vividly overhead.

But the night was too cold for star gazing and by 9pm we were all in our tents, inside the sleeping bags and cozily wrapped up from the harsh elements of the altiplano.

Day 2: 15km, Cancha Cancha (3800m) to Quishuarani (3700m)

We started the following day in luxury, having been woken at 5:30am with coffee and a bowl of hot water brought to our tent by our tireless porters. After filling up on breakfast and loading the mules we began the steady climb towards the first mountain pass of the trek.

As we rose towards the peaks we passed by a handful of youngsters, out keeping watch over herds of llamas and alpacas, before leaving all traces of civilization behind us. Up here there was nothing but Andean geese, a large native mountain bird called the Cara Cara, and oversized, stone-colored rabbits, the Viscacha, to keep us company.

As we hit the snow-line our trail took us past a series of large, natural caves in the mountain side. Luis explained that this spot is from where his spiritual ancestors were said to have originated, emerging from the cave carrying maize seeds, water and coca leaves, signifying the most important aspects of life in this region.

View from the first mountain pass on the Lares Trek, Peru. Photograph: Matthew Barker 2009

Finally reaching the highest point of the Pachacutec pass at 4700m, we were rewarded with stunning views across two valley systems, while far below us lay a set of dazzling turquoise lakes. It was up here that Luis stopped to make a ceremonial offering to the mountain gods, the apus, lighting a small fire to burn incense, sweets, coca leaves and other important gifts which would help ensure our smooth passage through the mountains.

After skirting around the mountain peak we began the steady thousand meter descent back below the snow-line and towards our second camp, stopping again for a large lunch before arriving after a full 8 hours hiking in the small settlement of Quishuarani.

Quishuarani was a slightly larger settlement than the previous night’s camp and we were treated to such luxuries as cold beer and chocolate from the village store. As on the previous night, the local youngsters were fascinated with their strange-looking visitors and we spent a couple of hours handing out gifts of coloring books and pencils to the younger kids, while learning a few musical tricks from the older ones, expert players of an Andean ten-stringed instrument called the charango.

Our second camp was also blessed with a small shelter, constructed by the local reserve authority to encourage more visitors to the area, which offered us a warmer environment to eat dinner and share a few mugs of rum with our vivacious guide and a few local villagers.

“Right! I’m going to teach you one of our Andean games!” Luis roared across the table, signaling the start of a long, happy night of dice games and rum drinking that lasted into the small hours.

Day 3: 20km, Quishuarani (3700m) to Lares Hot Springs (3100m)

After our late night we emerged the following morning with startlingly clear heads – perhaps a benefit of the fresh mountain air. “Everyone needs to fill up with a good breakfast,” Luis instructed, “and take plenty of water too. We’ve got a big day ahead of us.”

It was good advice: from Quishuarani we made the most demanding hike of the trip, tackling an incredibly steep incline that took us up to Hullquicasa which, at 4400m above sea level, was the second big mountain pass of our trek.

We were back above the snowline here, although the sun and the sheer physical exertion had everyone sweating buckets. In fact, we were concentrating so hard on getting up the mountainside, we almost missed the astonishing landscape we’d just walked into.

“Now look behind you,” Luis coolly suggested as we clambered, spluttering and wheezing, to the highest point of the pass. The view was almost unbelievable, as though we’d walked into a painting: the mountain fell away from us into a long, wide and grassy valley, dotted with brilliant blue lakes that reflected the skies like shimmering mirrors. Semi-wild horses, ancient stone buildings and small herds of llamas dotted the foreground, while in the distance was a never ending range of jagged mountains and snow-topped peaks.

View from the second mountain pass of the Lares Trek, Peru. Photograph: Matthew Barker 2009

This was a perfect spot to catch our breath and replenish ourselves on some high-energy snacks. But our smug self-congratulations for having made it up such an impossible climb were shattered by the arrival of an elderly lady, a local to the area, who was virtually running up the trail, a baby wrapped up on her back and a toddler pattering along beside her.

“Napaykullayki!” she called over, the regional Quechua greeting, shooting us a toothy grin as she raced past and down the other side, quickly becoming a small, colorful dot in the landscape.

Shamed into action, we clambered back onto our feet and began the descent down into the next valley. The trail passed dozens of small, perfectly calm lagoons and a swift river that eventually turned into a sequence of increasingly impressive waterfalls. Along the sides of the valleys were wide screes of boulders and rocks that had fallen from the mountain sides and now provided an ideal home for bounding families of the Viscacha rabbits who were entirely oblivious to us as we walked by.

Stopping for a short break next to one of these lagoons, the peace was disturbed by a suddenly animated Luis, breaking his cool for a rare, excited moment to point out the enormous condor circling above our heads.

The condor, the largest flying bird in the Americas, is a creature of immense spiritual and symbolic importance to the indigenous people of the Andes, as Luis’ reaction made clear. “That is a sign of real luck, my friends!” He beamed at us. “The condor isn’t so common in this range, but the mountains have certainly blessed us today!”

After stopping for lunch at the river-side village of Cuncani, we continued along the downward trail, following the river towards the Lares valley itself. During the wet season, this onward journey is usually split across two days, but thanks to the dry conditions we were able to continue walking for much longer.

After Cuncani the trail returned us to the tree-line and re-entered the more humid and milder climate and ecosystem of the Andean tropical forest. The path snaked through farmland and rustic agricultural settlements before dropping again, into the more settled and tamed environment of the Lares valley.

Entering the Lares Valley, Peru. Photograph: Matthew Barker 2009

Before long, the river had become a gushing torrent, fuelled by the glacial waters running through the valley which itself had become increasingly lush, the trees grew taller, the undergrowth thicker, and the sounds of birdsong returned to the breeze.

Eventually, rounding a corner along the valley’s edge we were presented with the most welcome sight in days: our camp, already set up by our outstanding team of porters, situated directly next to the series of therapeutic hot springs that make the village of Lares famous.

This was luxury in the true sense of the word and as we stripped out of our mud-clad trekking gear and into the hot showers and pools to rest our weary muscles, it was hard to suppress our grins of absolute contentment.

Day 4: 8km, Lares Hot Springs (3100m) to Inca Ruins

Having completed an extra stretch of hiking the following day, our final day on the trek was a much more relaxed affair, starting with another dip in the springs before making the gentle walk away from Lares along farmland towards some nearby Inca ruins.

The easy trail was a good chance to rest our legs after the demands of the previous few days, as well as catch a glimpse of rural life in the Andean pueblos that we were passing. Occasionally we came across snapshots of times gone by, a paved trail created during the days of the Inca, or a cliff-side cemetery where the bodies of nobles were buried, along with rich offerings to the same mountain gods to which Luis had prayed.

The trail eventually led us to a small village which marked the end of our trek. Here we reacquainted ourselves with the modern world (crossing a road was a novelty, the sound of a car was startling,) unloaded the mules and gave our deep and sincere thanks, along with a healthy tip, to the porters who had worked so hard to make our experience such a memorable one.

Luis stayed with us for the road journey back to Ollantaytambo, a town which had seemed so tiny five days ago, but which felt like a buzzing metropolis when we returned. Here, all that was left was to shake Luis’ hand, thank him for being such an outstanding guide, and catch the train for our much anticipated Machu Picchu tours, the final piece and pinnacle of our Sacred Valley adventure.

How Best To Enjoy Your Peru Trekking Experience:

While planning for Peru vacations, consider that operators for Peru tours and treks abound, but the quality and levels of service can be highly inconsistent. For the best standards in safety and comfort, do your research before you leave and check the online reviews for international providers of Peru vacation packages.

The Inca Trail is by far the most popular route, but the Lares trek is just one of many less-busy alternatives, including the long and spectacular Salcantay trek, or the much shorter Chacan trek.

When packing for your Peru trek, make sure to bring the following essentials:

- Waterproofs, both for yourself and for your daypack,

- Educational or healthy gifts for the kids you’re bound to meet on the way,

- Suitable water bottles or canteens for the drinking water that is usually provided,

- A head torch to keep things well lit up and your hands free,

- Plenty of good quality, warm layers that you can add and remove as the temperatures swing from very warm to freezing cold,

- A good quality, all-seasons sleeping bag and a sleeping bag liner, both of which can be hired in Cusco.

Sacred Valley tours are offered by all international Peru vacation package providers but the adventurous can easily set out alone and see the best of the Sacred Valley on a two day loop.

Inca Ingenuity at Moray, Sacred Valley, Peru. Photograph: Matthew Barker 2009

All of the following attractions can be visited with the universal tourist ticket boleto touristico ($40) which offers entrance to most of Cusco and the Sacred Valley’s sites.

Start from Cusco with a bus from the terminal at Puente Grau. Buses here leave for the main transport hub at Urubamba but don’t continue all the way, ask to be let off at Tiobamba where you’ll be able to catch a taxi to the fascinating Inca site at Moray.

Resembling a series of large amphitheaters, the circular agricultural terraces at Moray were actually an elaborate laboratory which created a series of micro-climates with which the ingenious Incas could determine the optimal growing conditions for all their most important crops, thus ensuring a steady supply of food for the entire empire.

A walk around Moray lasts around an hour, but on-site services are extremely limited – bring water and snacks with you.

Take the return taxi back to the main road at Tiobamba and wait for a passing bus heading on to Urubamba. There’s little reason to stay in town, you can easily switch buses and head straight on for the much more attractive town of Ollantaytambo.

This small village is one of the most picturesque settlements in the Sacred Valley, where cobbled streets and traditionally-built homes give a picture of life which has gone largely unchanged for hundreds of years.

Ollantaytambo is home to an impressive set of Inca ruins but you might want to save these for the following morning. Content yourself with a relaxing walk along the wide, fast flowing River Urubamba. Follow the trails leading up the surrounding hillsides for wonderful views over the town and the ruins.

Spend the evening enjoying the town’s small but bustling nightlife, with a great selection of restaurants and bars to choose from.

The mountainside fortress of Ollantaytambo, Sacred Valley, Peru. Photograph: Matthew Barker 2009

The town’s ruins open to the public at 7am which is a good time to catch the pre-tour crowd. Bilingual guides are available for around 30 soles, which are strongly recommended due to the lack of alternative information around the site.

After a couple of hours walking up and down the steep ruins and enjoying the breathtaking views, head back into town for a bite to eat at Heart’s Cafe, the profits of which go to support local community projects in the surrounding area.

After brunch, catch a bus back to the main terminal at Urubamba and switch buses for another gem, the bustling town of Pisac.

If you can time your trip, arriving in Pisac for midday Sunday will give you a memorable insight into rural Peruvian life with a massive, frenetic market where all the region’s produce goes on sale.

Stalls offering produce as diverse as coca leaves, live guinea pigs, fruits, vegetables and all kinds of meat compete with more tourist friendly stalls laden with souvenirs and holiday gifts.

Spend an hour or so exploring the enormous market before catching a taxi to the top of Pisac’s ruins, an enormous complex comprised of Incan and pre-Incan constructions, vast agricultural terraces, mountainside tunnels and temples.

Once again, a guide is recommended and give yourself at least three hours to explore the entire site.

Heading back into town, those with a strong constitution can try a glass of the local tipple, chicha, which is created by chewing and spitting corn kernels into vats for fermentation. Chicha is available from rustic outlets, usually someone’s kitchen, look out for a red flag at the front door and be prepared for lots of inquisitive attention from the locals!

If you can’t wait, have a late lunch in Pisac or else catch a direct bus back to Cusco, which should take around one hour. Settle back in to your Cusco hotel and relax after your two day adventure in the Sacred Valley!