We caught a short taxi ride from the bus terminal and were deposited at the door of our lodging, located very close to Santa Cruz, one of the main streets that runs down the length of La Paz. At this early hour, the city was already revving up to the frenzied pace that characterizes daily life here. After checking in, breakfasting, and having a nap, we finally headed out to our destination.

A population of over 2 million inhabitants resides in La Paz, a city built up the sides of hills ranging in elevation from 9,800 feet to 13,400 feet (3,000 meters to 4,100 meters). Photo Credit: Herlim Li.

The Witches’ Market is actually one street in the middle of a larger market and is located on Jimenez and Linares streets between Sagarnaga and Santa Cruz. In this collection of shops and booths, women dressed in layered skirts and wearing black bowler hats trade in souvenirs and occult knowledge. Yatiris is the name for the medicine healers and fortunetellers, recognizable by their ponchos and coca pouches, that also available on these streets, offering their skills to paceños and travelers alike.

One of the most fascinating things you will see in this fascinating city is the Mercado de la Brujas – or the Witches’ Market.

On sale at the Witches’ Market, amid quantities of cheap trinkets, alpaca sweaters, and happy pants, we saw dried frogs and rats, owl feathers, seeds, herbs, and insect parts, as well as medicinal plants, love potions, ceramic figures, and amulets. There are also statuettes and when you talk to the vendors, you learn that different statues serve different functions. For example, there are statues to protect children, to safeguard travelers, to attract love, or to bring prosperity to a business. Many of the items on sale are the raw materials used in indigenous Aymara rituals as part of practices with ancient roots that are still very much part of Bolivian culture.

For many who seek out the Witches’ Market, the main draw is the desiccated llama fetuses that are visible everywhere along the street, piled into baskets, crammed into boxes, or hanging on display. There are two main uses for the llama fetus, or sullu in the Aymara language. Bolivians purchase dried fetuses to bury under the foundations of new houses or other buildings in order to bring protection to the construction. In its second use, the llama fetus is prepared by brujas (witches) with incense, sugar and sweets, and wool dyed in multiple colors. This preparation is known as a mesa andina (Andean table), and when burnt, it brings good luck, whether to a household, business, or other venture. In both uses, the llama fetus serves as an offering to give thanks to Pachamama, or Mother Earth.

Tiny llamas, some with fur and some without, will provide a shock for some and a thrill for others.

You may be wondering where these llama fetuses come from. Well, it is not uncommon for llamas to miscarry during the rainy season. The aborted fetuses are collected and then sold in markets like this one.

An interesting characteristic of the Witches’ Market is the predominance of women as business owners. This market has existed for generations and many of the shops that line Calle Linares, as well as the knowledge that is exchanged within them, have been passed on through generations of women. Additionally, in Bolivia, where home and business are often merged, the witches and folk healers that do their business along Calle Linares also live on this street.

Two things struck me most about the Witches’ Market. First, was the initial sense of foreignness and difference upon seeing the raw materials of witchcraft so openly displayed. Second, was that the intended effect of that witchcraft was deeply entwined with the universal and enduring preoccupations of humanity – among them, money, luck, and love. For me, travel is about finding these resonances.

Read about why Bolivia and Peru are perfect for a dual-country holiday and contact one of our expert travel advisors to start planning your fully customized trip to Bolivia and other destinations.  

Although he is as worldly and well-traveled as they come, the last time Gary spent time in South America was in 2005 during a trip to Argentina. It wasn’t until last week in early October that he returned to this bottom half of the western hemisphere for a quick bout in exploring Ecuador and the Galapagos Islands. Read more of what he had to say, now smarter with his global experiences, about his latest romp in South America.

The Galapagos Islands of Ecuador harbor some of the most diverse range of wildlife and endemic species than anywhere else on earth.

1. What were you most excited to see and experience in Ecuador, since this was your first time back in South America since your visit to Argentina in 2005? Any apprehensions?

Not really. If anything, having spent time this year in Spain, Puerto Rico, and Mexico, I am much more confident with my Spanish than I was back in 2005. I looked forward to the Galapagos Islands which are one of those places you always hear about. It met all my expectations and I was able to see almost all of the wildlife I was hoping to see.

2. How are some ways you prepared for your trip to Ecuador and the Galapagos?

I don’t really do anything special to prepare for trips. The only exception might be if there is extreme cold that I will have to deal with. Other than that, what I do for one country is similar to what I do for any other country.

3. Did you expect that traveling in South America will be different than in other parts of the world that you’ve been?

As a region, not really. The poorer parts of South America seem on a par with parts of South East Asia. The one thing which makes it easier to travel here is that you only have to really deal with 2 languages (5 if you include Suriname, Guyana, and French Guyana, I guess). I think South America is a much safer place than it was 20 years ago. Not many rebel groups anymore, no military juntas, and better infrastructure.

The colonial style of the Quito historic downtown makes it a classic and worthy stop on your Ecuador vacation.

4. You have many experiences in some of the more unconventional countries in the world. What tips do you have for those who are nervous or anxious about traveling to an exotic part of the world?

People are afraid of what they don’t know. If they think through it, they will realize that millions upon millions of people are living their lives every day in the very places they are afraid to go. There are thousands of tourists who go every year, and there really shouldn’t be anything to worry about if you keep your wits about you.

5. What are some things that short-term vacationers and travelers can do to ensure community-friendly and sustainable tourism?

Avoid any large brand names. If you stay in big hotels or resorts, the money is going to leave the country. If you stay in small hotels or guesthouses, the money stays with the people who run it. The same is true with restaurants. If you follow this advice, not only do you help the local economy more, you will also save a ton of money in the process.

A recent agreement between US airline JetBlue and LAN Airlines South America (including affiliates LAN Peru, LAN Argentina, and LAN Ecuador) allows customers to book a single, joint itinerary ticket from the United States to South America, making the journey to your dream destination just a bit easier.

The partnerships allows US-based travelers with a desire to see main Latin American destinations like Chile, Peru, or Ecuador — but who do not live in a city with an international airport hub — to book a single ticket from destinations served by JetBlue all the way to the Southern hemisphere. The trips will all require a plane transfer at New York’s JFK airport. This means that rather than checking in twice for two different airlines (once for the national flight, and once for the international flight), travelers will only have to check-in themselves and their baggage once at their departure point.

This new option will be available for booking in the coming weeks.

For the Brits

Starting next week, British Airways will begin direct flights from London’s Heathrow Airport to Buenos Aires, Argentina. Though the journey is still lengthy (13+ hours), it eliminates the previously obligatory stop in Sao Paulo. Of course, the layover option is still available for travelers who prefer lower prices over optimized convenience. This service begins on March 28, 2011.

To learn more about these new deals and book your next Latin America travel adventure, contact one of our expert travel advisors.

Costa Rica is often considered one of the most environmentally friendly countries, with more than 27% of its land protected by wildlife refuges, biological reserves, and national parks. Costa Rica is smaller than West Virginia, but offers a surprisingly diverse range of ecosystems and activities. Coral-lined beaches, active volcanoes, and cloud forests characterize this beautiful country which surfers, nature enthusiasts, and adventure addicts alike can enjoy on a Costa Rica vacation.

Green vegetation surrounds this picturesque stream in Monteverde

While this tiny nation draws over 1.5 million visitors every year, no efforts are spared to protect nature and its wonders. The number one destination offering eco-friendly travel opportunities, Monteverde, is located in the northern region of the Puntarenas province in the Cordillera de Tilarán. Monteverde, or “Green Mountain”, is home to the famous Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve.

Monteverde’s settlement dates back to the 1930s when a few “Tico” – Costa Ricans’ nickname – families left the gold-mining settlement of Juntas, and headed up the mountain to try their hand at logging and farming. In 1949, four Quakers were jailed in Alabama for their refusal to be drafted into the Korean War. They were eventually released from prison, but in response 44 Quakers from 11 families left the United States for greener grass – namely Monteverde. The Quakers adopted a simple life of dairy farming and cheese production in the cool mountain climate. Monteverde remains a Quaker dairy farming community which produces some of the finest cheeses in Costa Rica. Don’t leave without sampling some of their tasty treats!  In appreciation of watershed above the 1500-hectacre plot in Monteverde, the Quaker community agreed to preserve the mountaintop rainforests.

When ecologists investigated the preserve, they discovered that the cloud forests were actually two different ecosystems that straddled both sides of the Continental Divide. As a result of the temperature differential between the Santa Elena and Monteverde Reserves, each of the ecosystems boasts several distinct species.  In 1983, National Geographic featured an article stating the area as the best place to view Central America’s famous quetzal bird. Quakers were shocked when hordes of tourists arrived, and in response, lobbied to stop developers from paving the roads. As of today only dirt roads lead to Monteverde, while the local community continues to fight against the threat of overdevelopment.

Monteverde is a 4-hour journey from Costa Rica’s capital, San Jose. The best time to go depends on your personal interests. Consider visiting this lush area during Monteverde Music Festival, between January and February. The best time for bird watching is February through May when flocks of birds migrate and nest in the area. Prices may be lower during May to November, as it is rainy season and hiking opportunities are lessened.

Cleverly placed bird feeders on our Hummingbird Tour give you a chance to observe them in action

Many travelers come to the reserve to see big mammals living in the wild, such as jaguars, ocelots, and tapirs. These sights are fairly rare; however you are bound to see other captivating plants and animals. Monkeys, sloths, and birds will whisk by overhead, while you may have to look more carefully for miniature orchids which are no more than a millimeter or two across and can be found along hiking trails in the reserve. Another way to experience the local flora and fauna is on a skywalk or rappelling canopy tour.

From organic farming to alternative energy sources, Monteverde works hard to balance environmentally conscious thinking with tourism. You don’t have to be a Quaker or an environmental biologist to appreciate one of the few places left on the planet where the human footprint is kept to a minimum.

To plan an eco-friendly vacation in beautiful Costa Rica contact one of our expert travel advisors who can help customize your travel plans.

The impressive Iguazu Falls

The Foz do Iguaçu, or Iguazu Falls, is a force of nature. The 275 separate cascades make up a thunderous flow over basalt rock which gushes over 250 feet down, hence the meaning of “Iguazu” which means “big water” in Guarani, the regional indigenous language. At the Devil’s Throat, the largest waterfall in the circuit, water plunges over a U-shaped cataract that is 490 by 2300 feet. Spectators can get close enough to be surrounded by 260° of water. Numerous catwalks allow visitors to view and experience Iguazu Falls from many angles. Another possibility for prime viewing capabilities is a helicopter tour around the falls.

The waterfall is surrounded by lush rainforest and a reddish soil that contrasts with the green canopy. The Parque Nacional Foz do Iguaçu is well worth exploring and there are many peaceful hikes where you will have the chance to see wildlife in its natural habitat. Keep your eyes open for brown capuchin monkeys and colorful birds such as toucans. The town offers plenty to do and has a large choice of hotels, restaurants, and shops. This UNESCO World Natural Heritage Site lies on the border between Brazil, Argentina, and Paraguay so while visiting the falls you can easily make your way into three South American countries and have even more to brag to your friends and family about.

Another South American escapade to be proud of is a trip to breathtaking Easter Island. Nearly 2,500 miles west of Chile’s coast, it is one of the world’s most famous archeological sites bound to leave travelers amazed. Easter Island is a nature and culture lover’s dream getaway in the Pacific Ocean.

The mystical moai statues

One of the most isolated places on earth just got easier to travel to. The mystery of Easter Island and its indigenous inhabitants, the Rapa Nui, are intriguing to scientists and travelers alike. This triangular island is full of an extraordinary collection of archaeological wonders, including the iconic moai. These statutes form one of Rapa Nui’s most enduring images. These famous moai sculptures may be what first come to mind when picturing Easter Island, but the island has many other worthwhile attractions. On Easter Island you will be amazed by the 20,000 archeological sites, rich culture, two volcanoes, scuba diving, and white sand beaches.

You can now stand in the mysterious presence of Easter Island and be splashed by Iguazu Falls after a simple flight from the United States.

For more information on Brazil and Chile vacations, contact one of our travel advisors who can help you customize your next big adventure.

Dancing the passionate tango through the streets of Buenos Aires.

Argentina came in at number seven for best value destinations in 2011, which is no surprise to us.  Argentina pesos make the country an excellent deal for international travelers who can dine on delicious steaks and full-bodies red wines for a fraction of the cost they would pay in their home country.  Unlike in the United States where a nice hotel costs upwards of a few hundred dollars per night, in Argentina chic accommodation doesn’t carry a hefty price tag. Take a look at our Argentina tours for great ideas about how to plan an Argentina vacation for less.

Famous for their passionate tango dances, emulated in most American movies, and by children and adults worldwide, the fact that Argentina came in second for the best place to get your groove on in the world, is less than shocking. And, of course, there is no better city to clasp a rose in your teeth and dance with your love than the vibrant city of Buenos Aires. On a Buenos Aires Tour through the city of tango you can explore the best of Argentina while learning the intricate steps of this romantic dance.

The charming streets of colorful Bahia, Brazil.

Just two spots down the list at number four, Bahia in Brazil also deserves honorable mention.  If rhythmic dance circles, a festive atmosphere, and Afro-Brazilian culture sounds enticing to you, head to the colorful streets of Bahia where some of the finest and most energetic dancing in the world takes place in colonial plazas by moonlight. Created in Brazil by African slaves during the sixteenth century, Capoeira combines dance, music and martial arts. Characterized by broad, sweeping movements, playful sparring, and a whole lot of energy, this is far from your typical ballet and a must-see for travelers on a Salvador de Bahia tour.

For more information about visiting either of these two destinations on your next South America vacation, please contact one of our travel advisors who can help you customize your trip.

The mystical Basilica Nuestra Senora del Rosario de Santa Agua

The town’s gothic style basilica is dedicated to the Virgin, believed to have performed numerous miracles, rescuing people from volcanic eruptions, car crashes and falls among others. Travelers can even see a pile of canes and crutches in the church attesting to the miracles that have taken place here. Locals flock here year-round to pay their respects and touch some of the holy water flowing from the virgin’s statue, but international travelers come looking for a different kind of healing.

Sprinkled throughout the town are numerous natural baths that welcome travelers from all over South America and abroad, as well as its local inhabitants. It’s not uncommon to see Ecuadorian families strolling along in flip flops and bathing suits, colorful towels hung over sun kissed shoulders as they head to soak in the outdoor pools. The most famous and popular are the Baños de la Virgen, open until late in the evening, where bathers can soak in the steaming waters under a star strewn Andean sky.

The water is believed to have medicinal properties and attracts people hoping to find relief for their various ailments. Whether you believe in the water’s healing capabilities or not, the baths are still undoubtedly the perfect way to relax sore muscles. And most likely, your muscles will be sore if you decide to partake in any one of the many activities available in Baños.

Climb up the volcano to see lava flows, bike down the highway of waterfalls to Puyo, a jungle town 34 miles east, or horseback ride through the verdant greenery in the morning before river rafting along the Pastaza River in the afternoon. If you just want to relax, head to the countless spas in town for a massage, or body treatment, after bathing in the hot springs.

The small streets of the town itself are full of small family-owned restaurants and guesthouses, crowded with the international traveler interested in trying some of the finest food in the country. Ecuador isn’t so famous for its cuisine and, for a small town, Baños has an impressive array of dining options. Travelers weary of the standard chicken and rice dish will delight in the variety of international cuisine in Baños, including Italian, Thai, Mediterranean, Swiss, and German.

For a real treat, meander down to the main street in town, eyeing vast tables stacked with candy sweet enough to give your dentist a little additional work.  You will notice melcocheros (toffee makers) in doorways, their arms working overtime to stretch and beat taffy by hand.  Each doorway has a wooden peg that the candy makers use to wrap the melcocha around before stretching it back and wrapping it again.  Any good melcochero will give you a free taste of the warm sugary taffy, and most people end up buying a square or two.

On weekends, a small caterpillar train blasting music carries families with young children through the streets, while the numerous bars and peñas (traditional live music venues) in town provide the setting for a rowdy night.  The unique blend of lively nightlife, excellent food, and proximity to endless sports activities, volcanoes, and thermal baths make Banos a special place.  Plan for a weekend trip, but don’t be surprised if you end up staying a week.

For more information about Baños and Ecuador travel opportunities, contact a Peru For Less travel advisor.

Chile puts on impressive holiday festivities that make for an unforgettable vacation.  The central area of Chile, in the Santiago de Chile region, and particularly the city of Valparaiso, offer many great attractions around this time of year.

Beautiful view from Valparaiso Port

A 90-minute bus ride will take you from Santiago to the coastal city of Valparaiso, northwest of Chile’s capital, where a Cultural Carnival takes place every year in December right before Christmas. Here you can take part in the holiday merrymaking while enjoying a few days in the sun and relaxing on the seaside, as these are the hottest days of the year.

Usually the days leading up to Christmas are pretty quiet as this is more of a family holiday. On Christmas Eve Chileans generally retreat to their homes for a nice meal with loved ones and enjoy Pan de Pascua (fruit cake) for dessert. A Christmas libation you must try is Cola de Mono (Monkey’s tail), a traditional drink prepared with spirits, milk, sugar, coffee and cinnamon.

Religious celebrations are particularly impressive in Chile where the large majority of the population is Christian. You will be able to admire and, if you wish, take part in the many religious events that take place in the streets of every Chilean city around Christmas time.

If you are looking for a different experience, you can travel up north to the charming city of Andacollo known for its Festival of the Virgen of Andacollo, from December 24^th to December 26^th. This popular religious festival is one of the most widely attended in the country and surprisingly celebrates copper, Chile’s main natural resource. Andacollo was a settlement of Molle people, related to the Incas, who developed agriculture and exploited the copper resources in the region.  In their native language of Quechua, anta means copper, and coya means monarch. The celebrations usually involve dances and pledges to the Virgin of Andacollo, or the “Queen of Copper.”

As in most countries, New Year’s Eve brings its fair share of excitement and cheerful celebrations throughout Chile. Valparaiso, with its world-renowned festivities and over a million visitors each year, is, beyond doubt, the place to spend an exciting New Year’s Eve in Chile. Admire the phenomenal fireworks at midnight and enjoy the multitude of fiestas going on everywhere in the streets. It’s really an amazing sight to witness the thousands of visitors packed together, heads aimed skyward, looking at some 30,000 explosions over the harbor. Be prepared to party all night long, as live bands usually play until the early hours of the morning on Plaza Sotomayor.

Believed to be among the most striking in the country, celebrations on the coastline attract hundreds of thousands of Chileans and travelers alike each year. The buoyant activity, swarms of people, and beautiful setting create a lively atmosphere you are unlikely to forget.

For those who are not tempted to sleep out on the streets, which large numbers of young people actually do, remember to book your hotels well in advance for New Year’s Eve as many people make reservations months ahead of time.

For more Chile travel opportunities and information, contact a Chile For Less travel advisor.