Newsletter May 2008

Peruvian cuisine is internationally recognized for being among the best in the world. Combining the flavors of four continents, Peru derives its culinary success from Pre-Inca, African, Sino-Cantonese and Italian cuisine, just to name a few. Another key factor in the gastronomical diversity of Peru lies within its varied geography which is comprised of 84 of the 104 possible life zones in the world and supports a wide assortment of food sources.

A small but fundamental element of Peruvian gastronomy, the Peruvian black olive, embodies the essence of Peru with a flavor as rich as its history. According to legend, in 1519 the well-to-do settler, Don Antonio de Ribera, transported nearly 100 olive trees from Seville, Spain to plant in his Peruvian ‘huerta’ (Peruvian farm). The only three that endured the voyage were planted with nervous anticipation as Don Antonio de Ribera instructed his servants to guard the precious olive trees 24 hours a day. However, according to the Peruvian historian Ricardo Palma, a man from Chile stole one of the saplings and planted it on his farm along the Mapocho River. In this time, the consumption of olives was considered a luxury and guests at Peruvian dinner parties were fortunate to receive just one olive at the beginning of a meal and three by the year 1562.

Quite the opposite, modern day Peru is full of olives that grow abundantly in cities including: Tacna, Arequipa, Ica, Moquegua, La Libertad and even Lima, in the district of San Isidro, there lies an ancient olive grove with gnarled and deep-rooted trees. Harvested from May to July, the varieties include the Italian Ascolana Ternera, the Spanish Gordal and Manzanilla in addition to the long-standing Sevillean (Sevillana) strain.

Referred to as ‘aceitunas de botija’ after the clay jars (botijas) in which they were stored, these treasured jewels make their way into many Peruvian dishes. Whether it be an appetizer to accompany pisco sour, a garnish, or a filling for a typical Peruvian dish: papa a la huancaina, causa a la limeña, escabeche, tamales, empanadas, etc., the Peruvian olive is a celebrated component of this internationally renowned cuisine.

Famous culinary historian, chef and author specializing in the cuisines of Latin America and Spain, Maricel E. Presilla, asserts that “for me, [Peruvian olives] are much more than a condiment. They carry the imprint of tradition and are a seal of Peru's hybrid identity”.

Source: livinginperu.com, Wikipedia

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• Newsletter April 2008
• Newsletter February 2008
• Newsletter January 2008