Monthly Newsletter - May 2009

Perhaps the most popular trek in the world is the Inca Trail, and for good reason. The four day hike takes revellers through spectacular scenery dotted with remarkable historical and archaeological sites; a pathway used by the Inca Empire as a pilgrimage route to the sacred city of Machu Picchu.

The immense popularity of the Inca Trail has meant that the daily quota of trekkers now has to be limited; an essential measure to ensure that damage is not caused by potentially thousands of trampling feet a day.

Thankfully the trail is just one of hundreds of spectacular trekking options that Peru has to offer. Below are some of the fabulous treks that are not only alternative options for those who aren’t able to book a place on the Inca Trail, but fantastic experiences in their own right:

Lares
Not far from the Sacred Valley is a wonderful multi-day trek: The Lares Trail. This trail runs through the Lares valley which is scattered with traditional rural settlements against the backdrop of spectacular mountain scenery. Herds of llamas and alpacas surround the thatched stone houses, the inhabitants of which don traditional ponchos in bright and vibrant colours and rear guinea pigs that scamper freely between houses.
As such, partakers in this trek can experience a remote and rarely visited region that gives an insight into the real lives of the Andean farmer who continue their profession much in the same way as has been practiced for centuries.
The trek itself is rated at moderate difficulty- similar to the Inca Trail. There are, however, two passes over 4000 meters above sea level, so it is essential that you are well acclimatized to the altitude before starting the trek.
After completing the Lares trail, Machu Picchu is easily accessible by train and there are also several options to return to Cusco.

Choquequirao
Moving further away from the sacred valley area but still within reach of Cusco, a trek to the ruins of Choquequirao is another most invigorating experience for those enthused by Inca history.

The 5 day trek can be tough to complete but the effort is well worth it: it glides along ridges and bridges high above the raging Apurimac river, ventures through a variety of ecosystems yet remains far below the snow capped Vilcabamba mountain range.

The pinnacle of the hike lands on the second day when time can be taken to explore the ruins of Choquequiro. This is considered to be a sister site to Machu Picchu in that it appears to have built by the Incas for very similar religious, political and agricultural purposes. The ruins are complete with a central plaza and ritual temples while agricultural works such as terracing, aqueducts and canals are still in good condition. There is a big difference between the two sites in 2009 however - while MP is revelled by thousands of tourists a day, Choquequirao sees few visitors and can still be enjoyed in relative peace. This means that trekkers can get a sense of discovering and exploring a ruin still untouched by mass tourism. 

Salkantay
For those who like adventure, this particular trek could be considered the most exciting route leading to Machu Picchu. Making its way around the imperious Mount Salcantay, it is an absolute feast for the senses of natural wonder. The remote path winds through an amazing variety of landscapes and habitats varying from green, rich valleys full of blossoming forests and trees of different species, to highland fields and glacial moraines flanked by steep rocky and icy peaks of impressive beauty. The trek can be done anytime of the year, but the best time is from April to December. Machu Picchu is within easy reach after completing the trek.

Ausangate
Another mountainous trek, the Ausangate loop begins an 8 hour truck ride away from Cusco in the village of Tinqui. From here, the 5 day route traverses through valleys and past mountains, even passing just metres from glacial lakes that range in colour from midnight to sky blue.  At one point the tongue of the glacier reaches to within walking distance of the route – an enticing opportunity to explore the extensive system of ice caves contained within. Llamas and alpacas roam free along the trail and even their rare Vicuña cousins can be spotted from a distance.
It is a good idea to visit Cusco and Machu Picchu before attempting this trek in order to acclimatise to the altitude.

Vilcabamba
When Hiram Bingham was first shown the way to Machu Picchu by locals he thought he had found the Inca stronghold of Vilcabamba, where for 40 years the Inca dynasty repelled the attempts of Spanish conquistadores to destroy them. His guess was inaccurate, however, and historians now believe that the real Vilcabamba is located deeper into the jungle at a site that Bingham had in fact dismissed months before he first visited Machu Picchu.

Treks to the ‘real’ Vilcabamba are now in operation and the seven day hike is something of an exotic adventure. The majority of the trail leads through humid and tropical rainforest that is animated with colourful plants and wildlife while at times it can venture out into lush green countryside beneath snow capped peaks. All along the way remnants of the Inca Empire can be noticed – an Inca Trail towards their last seat of power.

The ruins are mostly overgrown with vines but this only adds to an authentic experience of exploring a site that is still shrouded by the mystery of its past and engulfed by dark forest. Many Inca buildings such as temples and palaces lie amidst this wild jungle, and further inspection of the site reveals a much more extensive city. It remains unknown just how far this extends and the prospect of new discoveries attracts many an historian, archaeologist and adventurer.

Huaraz
Those who concentrate on the Cusco and Sacred Valley Area risk missing out on some of the best trekking routes in the country. From the northern town of Huaraz arguably the most outstanding views in the entire Andes can be accessed. 7 hours journey by bus from Lima, Huaraz is nestled deep in the Cordilleras Blancas and is surrounded by towering and precipitous peaks. Amongst these is the mighty Huascarán, the highest mountain in Peru.
Numerous trekking operators are based in Huaraz, and they offer breathtaking hikes through the mountain terrain. Route options include: El Mirador from where Huascarán can be spotted; the Pitec Trail to Laguna Churup which leads to a pristine and crystal clear lake with glimmering reflections; and the popular Llanganuco to Santa Cruz loop which passes underneath 12 peaks that reach over 19,000 feet.  Trekking in the region can be tough but panoramic views of crisp and isolated mountain peaks will be compensation enough for tired legs.

Colca Canyon
Only a few hours from the city of Arequipa is one of the greatest natural treasures of southern Peru: The Colca Canyon.  Famous for its stunning views, relaxing hot springs and excellent Condor lookout platforms, the Colca Canyon is a special gem usually bypassed by many travellers to the Arequipa region. The massive variety available in a trek of just a few days is what makes this trail a hiker’s favourite.  Most guided trips offer the option of a 2 to 5 day trek, some trails of which take hikers from snow-capped mountain peaks that tower over two miles (16,000 ft) high to the base of the world’s deepest canyon and then through the magical Valley of Volcanoes, where more than 80 volcanoes can be found! Additionally, the less intensive trails are great altitude training for those continuing onto treks in far northern Cuzco, minus the trailhead bottleneck and crowded campsites.

Sources:
About.com, New York Times, andeantravelweb

By
Simon Ross-Gill

If you have any questions regarding his article, please write to him at: simon@peruforless.com.

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• Newsletter April 2009
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